skate punk

The benefits of using HID lamps instead of halogen lamps

2010-07-20T18:52:00.000-07:00

HID

These lights provide high intensity light bulb size is relatively small, making it a source of light in a compact and space saving. These lamps operate at high temperatures and pressures, and require a special installation for security. This lamp is a light source centered at one point and spread in all these directions, so the mirror reflector is required to collect the light generated.

Several variants of the intensity of the available public market, among others, 4300K, 6000K, and 8000K, the higher the intensity will be seen more and more white. Yellowish 4300K HID is the best if used at the time of rain. 6000K HID white color, very good in every situation, but if you are driving on the road with the perspicuity of HID light will be less visible / vague. 8000K HID last for a super bright white, very good in the dark, but when the rain will shine like the missing. So if you use this type of headlamp HID lamps as you consider a few entries above, in order to adjust to your needs.

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balance exercises on the skateboard

2010-06-22T04:39:00.000-07:00

I am sure I would be interested in these tips, because these tips I have nobody (I guess so does ............). Before I will give you all the tips I am, what you already know the meaning of the skate board itself? If you do not know, you would miss much .......

Exercise skate board is beginning to slide. Before you start sliding it's good exercise you do a light warm the muscles of the body so that you can slide a little weak and with alacrity. Wear shoes with good rubber soles. This will be very useful because you're stuck with making a good foot on board skate board so you can avoid slipping and falling to the asphalt.

If you are a beginner, choose a lightweight sled to start exercising. Find a hilly area with a paved surface, an area like this is not too hard to find in the city poor and rocky. Get on top of a hill, then sliding down the skate board. The main purpose of this exercise is to maintain body balance on the skate boards and avoid collisions. Maybe you should do 30 to 50 times, until you can control the balance of freedom in the skate board correctly.

Next try the higher hills. With a steeper slope, you will glide faster. It is due to earth's gravity and inertia caused by the weight (friend!). When you slide faster, you will find it harder to maintain body balance. With more heavy exercise the skills in the skate board you will be more refined.

history of the fingerboard or Finger-Skateboarding

2010-06-16T20:03:00.000-07:00

A fingerboard or Finger-Skateboarding is skateboarding miniature version complete with moving wheels, graphics and trucks. A fingerboard is the length of 96 millimeters or more, and can have different width as 26mm (normal), 28mm (width), and 29mm and over (extra wide). There are 57mm and 96mm mini cruisers boards.Skateboarding regular and tricks can be done using your toes instead. Most of the tricks done on the fingerboard is the same as people do on a skateboard. Lance Mountain fingerboarding helped develop as a hobby in the late 1970s and wrote an article about how to make fingerboards Transworld Skateboarding's magazine in 1985. ≥ Although fingerboarding is new for many years, they become a collection of toy as skateboard manufacturers realized the potential of brand products and the benefits began in the 1990s ... Fingerboards are now available as an expensive novelty toy and the collection of high-end, complete with accessories that one would find a use with standard size skateboard. Fingerboards also used by skateboarders as 3-D model of a visual tool to understand potential tricks and maneuvers; many users create videos to document their efforts.

Similar fingerboarding, handboarding is a small scale version of a skateboard that control the users with their hands, not just the fingers, while fingers snowboarding uses a miniature version of the snowboard.

»History

Fingerboards first created as a self-made toys in the 1970s and later became a novelty attached to key chains at skate shops (but also mentioned as a model for a skateboard.) In 1985 the documentary "Future Primitive" homemade fingerboard was controlled in the wash; some people consider this the earliest recordings fingerboard is available for public consumption. Homemade fingerboard was built from cardboard, Coffee Stirrers, Hot Wheels and axles. Fingerboards peripheral have become part of the skateboarding industry since the late 1980s and was originally marketed as keychains. Although almost no "rideable," they were corrected by the Tech Deck brand of mass produced a "rideable" miniature skateboard. Licensed entertainment was introduced by the fingerboards Bratz Toys, released through a Hong Kong based toy company called Prime Time Toys, and designed by Pangea, a company that helped develop the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles toy line of Playmates Toys. Design was utilized from entertainment properties such as "Speed Racer," "Woody Woodpecker," "NASCAR," "Heavy Metal," and "Crash Bandicoot." Tech Deck boards licensed driving license the brand to a strong urban brand, rather than creating their own designs. In the late 1990s, as fingerboards became more prominent outside the skateboard community, X-Concepts' Tech decks licensed "pro actual graphics of the major skateboard brands" up "fingerboard 1999 wave right into Wal-Mart and other big stores." In 1999 there was assembled a Tech Deck fashion from each design similar to the Beanie Baby mode months before. Thus, Tech Deck, and distributors in Spin Master Toys, suddenly found themselves a huge market for milk. Fingerboard entertainment-based brands can not compete against the giant cities, and finally disappeared. Other "major players in the skateboard industry" immediately followed by the hope of reaping the benefits as children's toys to play would prefer to pick up skateboarding. Fingerboards feature more modern "exchanged the wheels and trucks, a fairly accurate measure of the scale, and pad-printed graphics are reproduced from the most popular skateboard company in the business." Many companies provide all kinds of accessories fingerboard fingerboarding including sophisticated component and can be customized to duplicate, in scale-model, the experience of skateboarding. They thus develop into a collection of toy fingerboard and practice into a "form of mental skating."

Fingerboarding is popular in Europe and the United States, and there are more and more popular in Eastern Europe. Besides skateshops and the Internet, Fingaspeak, a fingerboard store opened in Steyr, Austria although rumored to be the world's first fingerboard joins a very small store store a list of available fingerboard. Although the sport originated in the United States fingerboarding more than 25 years ago that has really burned in the European scene. United States is to follow every so slowly and it is estimated that despite the popularity seems to support the people scenes fingerboard European Americans have more sales. This may be caused by flooding the market and the availability of resources in the United States. Fingerboarding has evolved from a hobby to a lifestyle for some people. Fingerboarders usual "contests, exhibitions, workshops and other events." Fingerboard-product sales estimated at $ 120-million for the year 1999.

Fingerboarding is perfect for videography as an action can be controlled and framed the activity offers opportunities for creativity. With the advent of the online video business from early 2006, spurred, in part, because the feature that allows e-mail clips to friends, a few thousand fingers handboard boards and video can now be found in the popular video sharing sites like YouTube. So even if the weather does not allow skateboarders to practice outside, they can try to trick potential to scale-down fingerboard and related items and share videos with anyone they want

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2010-05-27T20:01:00.000-07:00

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Habitat skate

2010-05-05T20:48:00.001-07:00

Habitat This is a company with a touch of sk8 boards calm, stylish and earthy. Almost similar to the Element, but the difference was not trying to Habitat to highlight his skater skaters like Bam Margera in the Element. That means the popularity of Habitat somewhat less famous, but their board is famous with its very high quality graphics and they are very artistic and further highlight icon icon. Habitat also has a board outside the normal seven plywood boards of other boards such as the Skylite lighter skate deck, corrugated bottom ply decks, and Terralone Earth-tone decks.

Zero Skateboards

2010-05-05T20:30:00.000-07:00

Zero characteristic can be seen from the graphic design is usually filled with blood and skulls. When the pro skater Jamie Thomas took over this company, Zero retains its characteristic Gothic and even add elements mixed with PUNK .... cool . Zero decks made with good quality. Then, a pro skater who is a board Wearing Jamie Thomas, Chris Cole, Ellisa Steamer (girls) and many others. One of his companies Jamie Thomas, who else is Mystery, and Mystery on board made exactly like Zero.

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2010-03-17T19:22:00.000-07:00

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Snowboarding Course - Linking Turns

2010-01-04T20:39:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Linking Turns

Linking Turns is the final step in our beginner course where you combine all you have learned. At this point, you should be comfortable with traversing and performing Garlands. You also need to get used to rising to a straight position and going down to a bent position while traversing. You can do this by practicing how to rise and fall on a flat surface, and then use the same motion while traversing on both edges and maintaining your speed.

What are you going to learn?
Linking Turns is a sequence of traversing, changing edge, and traversing again. Once you are able to link turns, you can consider yourself a 'real snowboarder' and you will look like one too!

Getting Started
Start by finding a groomed, gradual slope, preferably with as little change in contour as possible. It would be better if the area is not crowded so you will not be distracted or nervous because of people watching you. Visualize the run from the top. Make a mental note of where you might make your turns.

Heelside Turn

	STEP 1: Start by traversing in the same way you learned while doing Garlands. Turn your head and torso to face the direction where you want to travel. Keep your knees bent and your center of gravity low. Only try your first turn when you are comfortable with traversing.
	STEP 2: Start your first turn by shifting your weight forward to point the board downhill. You will accelerate as your board points towards the fall line. At this point, you can always abort your turn by shifting your weight backwards slightly and pushing your board up from the fall line using your rear leg, bringing you back to a heelside traverse.
	STEP 3: Halfway in your turn, your board will be pointing straight down and you need to pivot the board from heelside to toeside. Twist your foot to turn the board across the fall line and push the board through the turn using your rear foot. Extend your legs and shift your weight upward as you cross the fall line. Make sure to switch from heelside to toeside swiftly. Without an edge, you will continue to pick up speed and you will likely fall.
	STEP 4: Complete your turn by twisting your front foot further and pushing your board away from the fall line using your rear foot. Turn your head and torso in the direction of your turn. At the end of the turn, you should be comfortably traversing on your toe edge. You have completed your toe-side turn!
	STEP 5:You have now completed your heelside turn and you are traversing back on your toeside.

Snowboarding Course - Garlands

2010-01-03T20:37:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Garlands

After learning how to perform the Falling Leaf, you are now ready to try doing Garlands. These are actually partial or half-turns in which changing edges is not necessary. They are called as such because the tracks that you will leave on the snow are similar to garlands that you see in Christmas trees.

	STEP 1: You need a wide area for this exercise. Go to the top of the hill and position yourself across the Fall line. Start with a heelside position. Look towards the direction where you want to go.
	STEP 2: When you're ready, decrease the edge angle of your Snowboard. Point your board down the Fall Line and then shift your weight forward by applying weight on your leading foot.
	STEP 3: Begin a straight glide. Keep going until you pick up some speed. You will notice that you will gain speed as you point the tip of your board closer to the Fall line. Remember to look towards the direction where you want to go.
	STEP 4: After gaining the desired speed, slow down by increasing the edge angle of the board and shifting your weight backward. Get ready to turn sideways to decrease your speed.

	STEP 5: Move the tip of your board gradually across the Fall line. Take note that as you do this, you will be slowing down. Maintain your balance as you change the position of the board.
	STEP 6: You will come to a complete stop when you turn your board uphill or if its position is already across the Fall line. Repeat the process until you are comfortable doing it on your heel edge. After that, try doing Garlands on your toeside.

To sum it up, these are the important things to keep in mind in doing Garlands: look towards the direction where you want to go, decrease the edge angle of your Snowboard and point the tip down the Fall Line, and turn uphill to slow down or stop. Once you get comfortable in doing Garlands, you will find that doing full turns will be a lot easier.

Snowboarding Course - Falling Leaf

2010-01-02T20:34:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Falling Leaf

Another movement that you should learn is the Falling Leaf. This is a Snowboarding Exercise wherein the rider skids back and forth on the same edge in an imaginary corridor, almost like a leaf when it falls from the tree. The difference is that unlike the leaf, the rider can control the path that he wants to go to. The trace that the rider will leave on the snow will be a zigzag pattern.

The Falling Leaf is almost similar to Traversing, except that the former incorporates a direction change. This is another good move to help you get down on tricky or steep slopes. When you are able to do the Falling Leaf, you will be able to travel in any direction no matter where your Snowboard is facing. Likewise, it will also help you hone your edge control skills. The Falling Leaf also adds directional control to your sideslip. Just remember that whichever end of the board has the most weight upon, it goes down the hill first.

	STEP 1: Start in the same way you would when performing a Toeside Traverse. It is very important to look towards the direction where you want to go. Spread your arms a bit to help you maintain your balance. Put your weight on your front foot.
	STEP 2: Cut across the slope’s Fall line. Keep your balance on the toe edge. Don’t forget to keep the angle of your traverse in a considerable degree. Stop as soon as you get to the far end of the trail. Do this by bringing the board back to an angle directly across the fall line.
	STEP 3: Stay balanced on your toe edge. Do not flip over or begin a Heelside Traverse on the other edge. Turn your head and look over your shoulder. Gently put your weight on your backfoot. Traverse back across the slope.
	STEP 4: Keep your angle in a slight form. Also, make sure that you stay in your toe edge. When you reach the opposite end of the slope, shift your weight and direction. Ride the board nose-first and continue with another traverse using your toe edge.
	STEP 5: At this point, you have successfully made the first zigzag pattern. Just repeat the process until you reach your desired destination.

If you want to do the Falling Leaf using your heel edge, just repeat the exercise, but use your Snowboard's heel edge. Just keep practicing this skill because it will be very helpful for you to travel down terrains.

Snowboarding Course - Traversing (Toeside)

2010-01-01T20:32:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Traversing (Toeside)

If Sideslipping is the act of sliding down the fall line using the heel or toe edge to control your descent, Traversing is a skill that takes you from one side of the slope to the other while descending gradually. You can use the toeside or heelside in traverses. In this section, learn how to traverse using the toe edge of your Snowboard:

	STEP 1: In traversing using the toe edge, it is very important to look towards the direction where you want to go. Spread your arms to help in maintaining your balance.
	STEP 2: Then, turn your head and upper body towards the direction you wish to travel to. Shift more weight on your leading foot and move together with your other foot.

	STEP 3: Return your Snowboard to its original position across the fall line. Get ready to move to the other side of the slope. Look towards the direction where you want to go.
	STEP 4: Just like in Step 2, turn your head and upper body towards the direction you wish to travel to. Shift more weight on your leading foot and move together with your other foot.

Mastering this skill can help you control your speed and direction. Continue practicing until you feel comfortable traversing. Soon, you can control both edges and you can make a controlled stop when necessary. Make sure that you are already comfortable in doing Traverses (heelside and toeside) before trying other Snowboard Exercises.

Snowboarding Course - Traversing (Heelside)

2009-12-30T20:29:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Traversing (Heelside)

Traversing allows you to move across the fall line while descending gradually. It is actually riding diagonally across the slope, taking you slowly from one side of the slope to the other. You can do traverses in two ways, depending on the position you make and the board edge that you use. One of them is Traversing - Heelside. You will make use of your downhill edge in order to control your speed.

	STEP 1: In traversing using the heel edge, look towards the direction where you want to go. This is one of the most crucial things that you should do when traversing. Spread your arms to help in keeping your balance.
	STEP 2: Then, turn your head and upper body towards the direction you wish to travel to. Shift more weight on your leading foot and move together with your other foot. Remember to keep the board angled downhill but only slightly.

	STEP 3: Return your Snowboard to its original position across the fall line. Get ready to move to the other side of the slope. Look towards the direction where you want to go.
	STEP 4: Just like in Step 2, turn your head and upper body towards the direction you wish to travel to. Shift more weight on your leading foot and move together with your other foot. Remember to keep the board angled downhill but only slightly.

Practice traversing using your heel edge so you will be able to control your speed and direction and improve your balance. Make sure that you are already comfortable in doing Traverses (heelside and toeside) before trying other Snowboard Exercises.

Snowboarding Course - Sideslipping (Toeside)

2009-12-29T20:27:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Sideslipping (Toeside)

Sideslipping is simply sliding along the fall line of the slope. This skill will teach you how to control your Snowboard and make use of your edges when descending.

There are many advantages of learning this skill. First, it will teach you the importance of edge awareness. Sideslipping is one skill that you should learn before you can do traverses. Eventually, you will also be able to perform basic turns. When you decrease the angle of your board’s uphill edge, it will initiate a sliding movement. On the other hand, if you increase the edge angle, the board will slow down and stop.

In this section, know what Sideslipping (toeside) is all about and learn how to use your toe edge in controlling your descent:

	STEP 1: When starting out, learn on a moderate slope. Your feet should be attached to your Snowboard Bindings. Face uphill with your board directly across the fall line. Bend your knees until they touch the ground. Make sure to keep your balance.
	STEP 2: While on your knees, dig your toe edge deeper into the snow. This will give you a firm hold or a stable position before you continue. Plant your hands into the snow to support your upper body.
	STEP 3: Then to get up on your toe edge, move your hands toward your body and put them on your sides. Use your hands to balance yourself while you lift your knees gradually from the ground. Next, steadily extend your legs and try to stand. Keep your balance and make sure that your board remains on its toe edge.
	STEP 4: Finally, try to stand up. This is quite a difficult position to make but it can be mastered through practice. Just find your balance and hold your upright position while the board is on its toe edge.

	STEP 5: At this point, learn how to control your Snowboard and the speed of your descent using your toe edge. Decrease your edge angle. You will notice that your speed in going downhill increases. You will descend faster as you push your Snowboard further down.
	STEP 6: Increase the edge angle of your Snowboard. Take note that there is a decrease in your speed. You will keep on slowing down as you continue to increase the angle of the Snowboard toe edge.
	STEP 7: This is the last step of the exercise. While keeping the board on its toeside, gradually move down and put your hands on the ground to support your body. At this point, you already know how to use your toe edge in descents.

Edge awareness is one of the most important things you need to learn in Snowboarding. Practice Sideslipping and take full advantage of your toe edge. Be comfortable in doing this skill so you can move on to the other Snowboard Exercises. Check out our next section and learn Sideslipping on your heel edge.

Snowboarding Course - Sideslipping (Heelside)

2009-12-28T20:24:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Sideslipping (Heelside)

As mentioned in our Sideslipping (Toeside) section, Sideslipping is sliding along the fall line of the slope. This exercise will teach you how to use your Snowboard's edges to control your speed in going downhill.

In this section, know what Sideslipping (heelside) is all about and learn how to use the heel edge of your Snowboard in controlling your descent:

	STEP 1: When starting out, learn on a moderate slope. Your feet should be attached to your Snowboard Bindings. Then, face downhill and sit on the ground. Your legs should be bent and your snowboard should be on its heel edge. Make sure to keep your balance.
	STEP 2: Dig your heel edge deeper into the snow. This will give you a firm hold or a stable position before you continue. Plant your hands into the snow to support your upper body.
	STEP 3: Move your hands toward your body. Use them to balance yourself while you lift yourself gradually from the ground. Distribute your weight evenly to your knees to help maintain your balance.

	STEP 4: Finally, try to stand up. This is quite a difficult position to make but it can be mastered through practice. Just find your balance and hold your upright position while the board is on its heel edge.
	STEP 5: Know how to control your Snowboard and the speed of your descent using your heel edge. Your speed in going downhill increases as you decrease your edge angle. Push your Snowboard further down for more speed.
	STEP 6: In the previous step, you learned that you will gain more speed if you decrease your edge angle. This time, increase the edge angle of your Snowboard. You will notice that there is a decrease in your speed. Keep on slowing down by continuously increasing the angle of your Snowboard heel edge. Soon, you will come to a halt.
	STEP 7: You have finally reached the last step of the exercise. Keep your board on its heel edge while gradually lowering your body. Put your hands on the ground to support your body.

At this point, you already know how to control your Snowboard (heelside and toeside). In general, it does not really matter if you learn Sideslipping on the heel edge or toe edge first, since you will learn both as you go on with the Snowboarding Course. Practice Snowboard control and make use of your edges in controlling your speed down the slope.

Snowboarding Course - Moving Up the Slope

2009-12-27T20:21:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Moving Up the Slope

After trying to skate/slide down the bunny hill, you will now have to learn how to move up the slope. You can do it by inching your way up while both feet are attached to the board. In this section, learn how to move up the slope with both feet strapped in:

	STEP 1: Start off by finding a slope with as little human traffic as possible. Face uphill and with both feet strapped in, assume a frog-like position - toe edge on the snow, knees bent, and your hands planted on the ground just like in the illustration.
	STEP 2: Begin inch worming by moving your arms forward. Then, gradually extend your legs. Make sure your Snowboard is still on its heel edge. This position is quite difficult to make because of the weight of your body and the inclination of the slope. Just use your arms and your heel edge for support.

	STEP 3: This step will require a considerable effort on your part. Without moving your arms, pull your legs toward you just like what a frog's hind legs do when it hops. It helps if you elevate your Snowboard and use your knees to move forward.
	STEP 4: Repeat the steps until you have inched your way up the slope. If you can perform this move well, then you won't have a hard time going up the slope with your Snowboard still attached to your feet.

Moving up the slope in this manner is quite tedious so you can only perform it for short distances only or if you can still endure doing the steps repeatedly.

Snowboarding Course - Gliding

2009-12-26T20:18:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Gliding

Gliding is one skill that you should be able to do before you progress to other Snowboard Exercises. This basic movement will help you to be comfortable in shifting your weight forward and in gaining Snowboard control.

This will also be helpful when riding a chairlift. You can be able to unload from a chairlift in control if you are able to turn out of a glide. As soon as you are able to stand tall on a board and glide down from an incline, then you are ready for the chairlift.

STEP 1: First, find a gentle slope with as little human traffic as possible. Maintain your balance while standing. You can spread your arms a little bit to help you stay in upright position. As soon as you are ready and the coast is clear, place your back foot just in front of the back Snowboard Binding.

STEP 2: Lean forward so you can start moving downhill. Point your toes down to move forward and shift your weight backward to slow down or stop. Always look at where you want to go and not at your Snowboard.

Moving on the slope with only one foot attached to the Snowboard can be pretty exhausting but you will find that it will be very useful in many ways. Practice and be comfortable in doing straight glides before trying other Snowboard Exercises.

Snowboarding Course - Switching Edges

2009-12-25T20:14:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Switching Edges

If you find yourself on the wrong edge, you need to unfasten your Snowboard Bindings, turn around, and attached the bindings to your feet. However, there is an easier way of switching edges. This is by rolling on your side while your feet are attached to the board. In this section, learn how to switch edges the easy way:

Switching Edges - Toe to Heel

	STEP 1: This is probably easier to do than switching from heel edge to toe edge. Drop on your knees and plant your hands on the snow.
	STEP 2: For additional support, move your elbows down so it will be easier to roll on your side.
	STEP 3: Duck your right shoulder and move your upper body towards the direction of the roll.

	STEP 4: Get your snowboard up in the air and gradually turn it around.
	STEP 5: At this point, you should be lying on your back and your Snowboard is in midair.
	STEP 6: Put your Snowboard down. Using your hands, push yourself up to a sitting position. You have already switched from toe to heel edge.

Switching Edges - Heel to Toe

	STEP 1: In changing edges from heel to toe, sit on the slope and slightly bend your knees.
	STEP 2: Lie down and put your hands on your sides.
	STEP 3: Put your hands behind your knees and try to get your Snowboard in the air.
	STEP 4: Turn the Snowboard once it gets airborne. Plant the tail or nose of the board into the snow.
	STEP 5: Continue to roll on your side until the Snowboard is already is on its toe side and you are facing the uphill.
	STEP 6: At this point, you have switched from heel edge to toe edge. Use your hands for support as you stand up.

This is the basic way of switching edges when you are on the slope. You will soon be able to change sides easily when you find yourself on the wrong edge. Just make sure to keep away from other snowboarders when you need to do this.

Snowboarding Course - Skating

2009-12-24T20:06:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Skating

Mastery of skating from one place to another is a useful skill in Snowboarding. You will have to skate when you are making mid-mountain transfers from lift to lift, crossing the flats from the base lodge over to a lift, or when trying to get moving again if you get caught on a 'cat track'. Practicing this useful technique will also help you get the feel of gliding the board forward on the flat before you attempt the same motion on a gradual slope.Here are some tips on how to skate:

* Attach your front foot to the Snowboard Bindings, and leave your back foot free.
* Make a skating motion by placing your front foot in front of you while using your back foot to move forward. Skating/Sliding on your Snowboard with one foot attached is something you need to learn and would do often in Snowboarding. Every time you need to enter or exit a lift or travel short distances on a level or uphill slope, you will need to skate.
* Try skating around but make sure that your back foot should never be ahead of your front foot. Make sure to only make small steps with your back foot.
* As you improve, you will learn how to take bigger steps and really kick with your back foot.
* Also, make sure to keep your front leg slightly bent with most of your weight on your front foot. It will help keep your balance.
* As your skills improve, you will be able to make some speed. You will also be able to place your back foot on your Snowboard Stomp Pad or press it against the back of your Snowboard Binding if you don't have a stomp pad. Then, try to keep both feet on the board as much as possible. Try to crouch and get up while sliding on the board.

Snowboarding Course - Carrying your Snowboard

2009-12-23T20:04:00.000-08:00

Snowboarding Course - Carrying your Snowboard

There are several ways to carry your Snowboard while on the slopes. One important thing to remember is to watch out for other people or objects you might hit with your board when you are walking. Another one is to avoid dropping your board on the slope, unless you want to go on a Snowboard chase. In this section, learn several ways to carry your Snowboard:

The most common way of holding your Snowboard is to carry it like a book. Simply carry your Snowboard under one arm with your hand holding the board in the middle for balance. In this way, your board is pointing at the same direction you are facing.

Another way to carry your Snowboard is to put it behind your back and hold it with both hands. This is less tiring than the first since you will be using both hands. However, this will be quite a challenge when going uphill as the weight will somehow drag you down.

You can also just drag your Snowboard up the slope by holding or wrapping the leash around your wrist. This is especially convenient when you are traveling long distances and you need to carry your Snowboard. Just make sure that you don't bother anyone when you are dragging your board on the slope.

If you have to leave your board alone, one option to keep it safe is to use a lock. Some resorts provide snowboard locks for specific kinds but it would be more advisable if you have your own. You can also share locks with your friends. If you decide to leave your board at the base, make sure that it can be easily seen from where you are.

We have listed some of the ways to carry your Snowboard. In general, it is a matter of preference. No matter how you do it, just make sure that you will not hit anyone or it will not slide down the slope.

Snowboard Basics

2009-12-22T19:58:00.000-08:00

Acclimatizing yourself to your Snowboard is one of the basic essentials in our Learn Snowboarding Online Course. You need to be comfortable in moving on the slope while your feet are strapped in. Follow this Snowboarding Tip so you be able to ride the slopes with ease. Gear up on the slope and get used to your board easily with the help of our easy-to-follow steps and animation:

STEP 1: Find a flat area or gentle incline. Keep away from high-traffic areas. Rest your Snowboard on the snow, with the bindings facing down. This is to secure your board in place and keep it from getting away from you.

STEP 2: Turn the board towards you. If you are on a gentle incline, attach the safety leash on your front leg to keep the board from sliding down.

STEP 3: Start fastening with your front foot. Place your foot in the front binding. Fasten the ankle strap. Make sure that your heel is securely in place.

STEP 4: After fastening the ankle strap, secure the toe strap. Make sure that it is snug enough without hurting your foot. Now that your front foot is buc

	STEP 5: Stand up and move your board up and down using your front foot. Do this repeatedly until you get comfortable with your board.
	STEP 6: At this point, put your free foot forward. This is the same as Step 5 but this time, the board is behind you. Move it up and down to acclimatize yourself to the board.

Gearing up on the slope and getting accustomed to your board are some of the fundamentals in learning how to ride. Getting comfortable with your board and your set of equipment in general can help you in performing various Snowboarding skills, techniques and maneuvers. kled in, you can start getting accustomed to your board.

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2009-12-01T16:25:00.000-08:00

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Skateboard deck

2009-11-27T17:22:00.000-08:00

The picture gives this invention away. If you guessed skateboard then you are correct! In reality, the disclosure would also be sufficient to cover any type of sports board, not just a skateboard. In fact, the wheels (shown above as 121A and 121B) are not present in any of the claims, which makes for an interesting skate board, doesn’t it?

What is present, however, is a requirement that the board itself have means for receiving one or more trucks. What? Well, as it turns out in the skateboard field a truck is really just an axle. This demonstrates the importance of understanding terminology that is associated with a particular industry when writing a patent application, but why not just call it an axle? I have no idea. Yes, we can assume certain knowledge appropriate for those of skill in the art, and in this industry they would know that a truck is an axle, but I never recommend doing for inventors. It is not at a good idea to assume knowledge on the part of anyone reading a patent application. Only when it matters will anyone try and determine who the person of skill in the art is and what they would have known. Take no chances! Assume you are talking to an averge Joe, and to Joe a truck is a vehicle not an axle! It is always best to remember that old saying, you know the one about what happens when you ASSUME!

So, this invention would seem to cover snowboards, for example, so long as the snowboard is manufactured such that it is capable of receiving an axle, which doesn’t seem very likely. Nevertheless, the real cool part is that the board itself is made of grass! Well, that is what the claim says anyway. It is really made of a first and second layer of a grass mesh, with grass being defined as bamboo, hemp or kanaf, whatever kanaf is. In any event, In between these first and second layers is an unspecified, relatively light and flexible core. Of course, there needs to be an adhesive present to bind these three required layers.

Who would have thought of a three ply skateboard? Maybe someone familiar with plywood? On another note, in order to have a skateboard wouldn’t you need more than one truck? Maybe that is the real invention, a two wheel skateboard. Now that would not be obvious at all.

Guns boards

2009-11-03T18:52:00.000-08:00

Guns

Guns are serious boards for the serious surfer and are designed for riding the largest days of the year. Chances are if you need this type of board you're probably not going to be reading this but for the sake of education, we’ll describe them briefly. You can think of guns as a survival tool rather than a performance design because only the best of the best do anything more than just survive the giants waves ridden on these boards.

The objective in big wave surfing is to get into the wave early, get down the face, and make the wave. Consequently, these boards have vee bottoms which creates suction and control, in effect holding you on to the face of the wave. The last thing a surfer wants on a large wave is to spin out at the bottom of a twenty or thirty-foot wave.

Gun surfboards need to be thick with the wide point slightly forward of center for maximum paddling efficiency and cover a lot of ground in a short time. Guns are normally thrusters or single fins, but recently the four fin has become a viable option as well. This type of board is for the advanced or expert surfer only.
Surfer/Shaper Kent Senatore of Tore Surfboards Hawaii has been making custom surfboards since 1980 and has an impressive resume. He has a proven track record and a unique ability to connect on a personal level with every customer. Kent's commitment to quality, attention to detail, and personal service are guaranteed to improve your surfing experience on every level.

Semi-guns

2009-11-02T18:50:00.000-08:00

Semi-guns

Semi-guns or mini-guns are sleek, elegant, and beautifully foiled boards. Meant to be ridden in medium to large surf, they’re highly specialized and are usually designed with a particular type of wave or a particular spot in mind, i.e., 'Pipe board' (semi-guns used at the Banzai Pipeline). Because semi-guns are so surf spot and rider specific, we won’t get too deep into design characteristics.

Semi-guns fill the gap between shortboards and guns and are basically a longer and beefier shortboard while maintaining most of the same design elements. The outlines of a semi-gun is slightly wider and the thicker, often by 1/8” to 3/16”.

We recommend that each surfer work closely with your shaper to develop a board suited to your specific surfing needs. Semi-guns are for the advanced to expert level surfer.

Longboards

2009-11-01T18:48:00.000-08:00

Longboards

Longboards are loved and hated by all. If you’re on a longboard, you love riding them. However, If you're on a shortboard, chances are you’ll hate all the longboarders in the line-up. The truth is, riding a longboard puts you as close to the roots of surfing as possible. Even hot-dogging, the earliest version of high performance surfing style began on boards over nine feet long.

On a board that catches any wave with ease, you’ll increase your wave count and learn, or relearn, depending on your background to appreciate the simple joy of riding a wave. Just try not to get too greedy when surfing in a mixed line-up. Because of it’s length, width, and thickness, the longboard is often referred to as tanks or tankers. Ironically, these are design attributes that allow any rider the ultimate in paddling ease and stability, making them the best beginner boards available. Depending on the type of surf and how the board is ridden, longboards feature a variety of fin setups from a single fin, 2+1, or thruster fin set up.

The longboard's straight rail line makes it trim effortlessly down the line but requires strength and good technique to perform. Noserider longboards are usually thick and bulky with concave in the nose while high performance designs are thinner with more rocker in the nose and tail. High performance longboards at times also utilize a concaved nose for increased nose riding ability. Most longboard bottoms utilize vee, blending from the center and flowing off the tail while some high performance models offer vee with concave running through it for added speed. Longboards work in any size wave and for surfers of any skill level including rank beginners to life long veterans.

Mini Tanker

2009-10-30T18:47:00.000-07:00

Mini Tanker

This board is for all intents and purposes a smaller version of the typical longboard. Mini tankers feature the same design elements as longboards. Depending on the rider’s preference, mini tankers can ridden with wide noses and concave for noseriding, or a pulled in, slightly pointed nose for a more performance-oriented style of surfing. Due to the shorter rail line it will obviously turn quicker than the typical longboard, yet still paddle and catch waves effortlessly.

These boards will work in any size surf but are most commonly ridden in small to medium size waves. The mini tanker's smaller size are best suited to the weight and body size of women and children but are often ridden by average sized men as well. This is another great all around board design that works well for surfers of any skill level.

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Funboards

2009-10-29T18:46:00.000-07:00

Funboards

Funboards are aptly named because they allow the rider to focus on the purest goal of surfing which is having fun! The outline is basically an overgrown egg which is why some shapers call their funboard designs eggs. This type of board incorporates all the elements of modern surfboard design including moderate rocker and standard rail shape.

Funboards often times utilize thruster fin set ups and their ample volume and length allow the rider to paddle, catch waves, and turn effortlessly. Most shapers will agree that for average surfers, funboards provide the best of both worlds: the paddling power of a longboard and the turning ability of a shortboard all blended into one.

The design works well in small to medium size surf, however, funboards loose their charm in large surf. This design is a great all around board that works well for all surfers but is best suited to the beginner or the rider making a step down in length from a longboard towards a shortboard.

retro surfboards

2009-10-28T18:44:00.000-07:00

Retro Single Fins

The retro movement is a product of the previously mentioned open-minded trend towards experimentation. If you want to truly understand the history of surfboard design, it makes perfect sense to try a single fin. Surfing one will help you see why the advent of the twin fin and thruster were such significant turning points in the evolution of surfboard design.

The single fin’s template features a wide point forward of center and the thickest point of a single fin is also past center. Having more volume under your chest makes this type of board easy to paddle offering high wave catching ability. By moving the widest point forward (which also creates a straighter and narrower tail), the single fin outline encourages the board to track down the line. The typical single fin bottom features vee starting from the center of the board and flowing to the tail which helps to counter the straightness of the outline and allow the board to roll from rail to rail much more freely.

Single fins can work in any size surf but surfer beware, you'll need to nurse your turns in order to keep the fin from releasing and causing the dreaded spin out. As mentioned previously, riding this design will offer you a greater appreciation of the effortless turning modern surfboard designs provide. Because of the added volume and ease of paddling inherent to this design, retro surfboards can work for a variety of abilities anywhere from from a total beginner to the more advanced surfer.

Shortboards

2009-10-27T18:43:00.000-07:00

Shortboards

Due to the highly competitive nature of the shortboard market, high performance shortboard designs have become very generic in recent years. Most shapers play follow the leader, making only subtle changes in bottom contours and outline to differentiate their designs from one another. Most surfers lacking a trained eye in board design will not notice or feel much difference from one shaper's design to another.

Basic shortboard surfboards feature a single to double concave and three fins (thruster set-up). These boards are thinned down as much as possible creating a board that lacks floatation and offering poor paddling ability. To the novice surfer, shortboards can be very difficult to catch waves on and unless you’re a surfer of considerable skill, shortboards prove to be very difficult to ride in weak/small surf. These boards are designed for performance minded surfers and are designed for quality surf.

Shortboards need to be turned continuously to generate speed and if you posses this kind of ability, you’ll likely be able to do any type of manuever you can imagine including airs, tail slides, floaters, reverses, etc. The shortboard design is definitely meant for the intermediate to advanced level surfer and will create serious problems for a beginner.

Eggs Surfboard

2009-10-26T18:42:00.000-07:00

Eggs

Eggs are similar to fishes in that they have flatter rocker and plane quickly, allowing them to catch waves easily. Traditional style eggs have a single fin and today's modern design utilizes a 2+1 fin setup (large center fin with two smaller side fins). Adding the side bites to the longer center fin helps the rider perform harder rail turns without the fear of spinning out, which is an inherent drawback of the single fin design. Eggs also have more curve in their outline than fishes which equals better turning.

Like fishes, eggs are usually shorter than 6’0” which makes them best suited for small surf, however, the above average surfer can adapt and make this design work in medium size surf as well. Because of the added curve in their outline, eggs have a smoother rail-to-rail transition than a fish and love carving big round house cutbacks. The egg's flat rocker and quick planning ability create the same speed as fishes and are best suited for intermediate to advanced surfers.

Fish surfboards

2009-10-25T18:41:00.000-07:00

Surfboard Types

Fish

Fishes are short and wide with flat rocker in the entry and tail. The Modern Fish, also known as the Rocket Fish have three fins. Conversely, the traditional fish (circa 1970's) was designed with twin keel fins.Fish surfboards catch waves surprisingly well despite their lack of surface area (most fishes are substantially shorter than a surfer's normal shortboard), mainly because of its flatter rocker, allowing the board to plane at a lower speed.

The shortness of this design creates a tight turning radius, making the board better suited to small waves but the above average surfer can also make them work in medium size surf as well.

Because of the added width, fish tend to ride flat on the wave and don’t transition from rail to rail very well making them difficult to surf vertically. However, the flat rocker and quick planning make this a very fast design that loves to race down the line and fly past slow sections on the wave. The fish is best for intermediate to advanced surfers.

Types of surfboard...

2009-10-24T18:57:00.000-07:00

Types of surfboard...

Shortboard or 'Thruster'

The most common board used for shredding and contest-style surfing. It sacrifices paddling ease for the sake of speed, power and control. They are generally around 5'6" to 6'4" long and between 16" and 19" wide, generally with a rounded square tail. A surfboard designed for the advanced surfer.
Fish

The fish surfboard differs from a shortboard in that it has a wider, rounder nose, a wider mid-section width and a 'swallow tail'. They are generally between 5'2" and 6'4" long and between 18" and 22" wide. They are designed to improve wave catching capability while maintaining speed and manoeuvring performance, ideal for small to medium sized waves.
Gun

The gun is long, narrow and pointy at the nose and tail (pin tail) for maximum rail contact. They range from 6' to 10' plus. They are ideal for big wave surfing, or for powerful, steep waves. Because of their shape they are easier to paddle out further to the big waves and easier to control on the steeper waves. The name derives from the term 'elephant gun', and means the board is the surfers' gun for hunting down big/giant surf.
Longboard

Otherwise known as a 'cruizer' or 'log'. They are usually over 8' or 9' long, with a rounded nose. Longboards are much more stable in the water, they are easier to paddle and great for catching waves, making them ideal for learning on. However due to their size, they can be harder to get through the white water and oncoming sets to get 'out the back'. There is a great deal of style attached to riding a longboard. Where the radical sharp turns and airs possible with a shortboard are not possible on a longboard, other manoeuvres are like hang fives or tens, drop-knee turns, cross-stepping along the deck of the board... and even tandem surfing!
Malibu or Mini-Mal

The malibu board is similar to the longboard in its shape and riding characteristics, but it's slightly shorter length and slimmer width and tail allow for sharper turns. You may also hear the malibu board referred to as a 'mini-mal', which is simply as it sounds, a slightly shorter malibu. They either have one large fin or three smaller fins.
Funboard

Funboards range in length between 6'6" and 8'0" and 20" to 22" wide. The funboard combines the paddling power of a longboard with the turning ability of a shortboard. These boards perform well in all conditions and are ideal for less experienced surfers.
Foamboard

Otherwise known as 'foamies' or 'softboards'. They are designed for beginners... as because they are foam, they are easier to catch waves on, easier to stand up on and much more stable in the water. Also as they are foam they are less likel to hurt you or others around you, and so are an obvious choice for surf schools.
Bodyboard

Otherwise known as a 'boogie board'. They are small, more rectangular boards you lay on rather than standing. Used by a variety of age groups, one of the safest options for families in small waves. Made from polystyrene, foam, wood or fibreglass. They can be very cheap, and are a lot of fun.

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Fins/skegs

The fin is the curved bit hanging down from the bottom of the surfboard near the tail (back of board). They give the surfboard directional stability on the face of the wave enabling turns and tricks. The early Hawaiian Olo boards didn't have a fin, it wasn't until the 30's when Tom Blake put a fin on a longboard that the idea caught on. Since then, twin-fins were introduced, then tri, then quad and now fins are interchangeable allowing surfers to experiment to suit their own style.

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The 'rocker'

The rocker refers to the bottom curve of the surfboard. From a horizontal view, it is more evident as the up-curve of the nose and tail of the board. Modern surfboards are shaped differently to enhance speed or maneuverability. There are many different types of rocker. But as a general rule the more bottom curve the surfboard has, the looser the board is in the water allowing more maneuverability, but slower. And the flatter the bottom curve, the faster the board is, but with less maneuverability.

And so a board with more bottom curve is better in larger waves, as the surfer has more maneuverability and the board is slower and easier to control in the more dangerous surf, where a flatter bottom would be better in smaller, slower surf where more speed is needed. Most surfers would prefer a neutral rocker as a happy medium.

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Surfboard wax

This looks like a bar of soap! It is in fact what surfers use to provide grip on the surface of their board. You rub the wax over the top of the surfboard to create enough friction to melt the wax into tiny bumps, which hold your toes to the nose.

There are different types of surf wax, it is important to use the correct wax for the conditions of surf, or the temperature of the water, or the wax will be ineffective! The different kinds are...

The Surfboard

2009-10-24T18:33:00.000-07:00

The Surfboard

The Surfboard is the essential piece of surfing equipment. Without it you ain't surfin'. The modern surfboard has come a long way in design and construction since the Hawaiians started surfing on wooden planks. The modern surfboard is hand shaped by professional shapers out of foam and finished with a fibreglass coat. They are light and strong, and the cutting edge of surfboard design changes as quickly as a cold surfer does on a windy day. Let's have a look at what the different bits of the surfboard are called so that you can sound knowledgeable when talking your mum into buying you a nice new board.

The first thing to note is that the Nose of the board is the bit that faces forwards. The Surfboard sits in the water deck site up, as you have probably already figured out by looking at the Surfing Lessons

Deck
The Deck is the top side of the surfboard and is where the surfer stands to surf and lays to paddle. Wax is applied to this top surface for grip. Often surfers will use deck grip for extra traction. If you look at the deck of a surfboard you will usually see a slight camber from the rail to the middle then back to the rail. This is know as a Domed Deck and helps promote easy rail to rail movements. The other tpe of deck is the Flat Deck - no prizes for guessing what this type looks like.

Nose
The nose of the surboard sits out of the water. On shortboards, fish and guns the Nose is normally pointed and on funboards / minimals and longboards the Nose is usually rounded. This is by no means set in stone. Some surfers use a surfboard nose guard which can protect the surfboard from dings and also protect the surfer from a good poke from a disgruntled board!

Tail
The tail is at the back of the board. There are quite a few different tail shapes with each shape providing different board performance. Check out surfboard tail shapes for more details. As pointed out in the above diagram, the tail will have a Leash Plug. This plug is where the leash is attached to the surfboards. The plug is set into the deck and the leash is looped through. Take a look at out handy attaching a surfboard leash guide.

Rails
The rails are the 'edge' of the surfboard and run from the tail to the nose and are where the deck and the bottom meet. Like the tail shapes, different rail rail shapes provide different surfboard performance. It may not be something you have thought about but take a look at the different shapes next time you are in a surf shop. More about Surfboard Rail Shapes here.

Stringer
The Stringer is a strip of strengthening material (typically wood) that runs the whole length of a foam surfboard. It is already present in the surfboard blank before it is shaped. Epoxy, Soft and Carbon Fibre (space age eh!) surfboards will not often have stringers.

ten best waves in the world

2009-10-16T19:03:00.000-07:00

What makes a wave dangerous? Is sheer size an accurate indicator for how hazardous a surf spot is? Read on for our roundup of the top ten most dangerous waves in the world.

1. Cyclops (remote south coast Western Australia)

This ultra square-shaped, below sea level, one-eyed monster tops the list for good reasons. It’s impossible to paddle into on a surfboard and almost unrideable towing behind a jet ski.

If you blow a wave here you’ll be washed straight onto the dry rocks, which is a bummer because the nearest medical help is hours away.

Photo by REUTERS/Mike Hutchings

2. Teahupoo (Tahiti)

The scary thing about Teahupoo (pronounced Cho-poo) is that as the swell gets beyond 10 feet the wave doesn’t so much get taller, it just gets more enormous, often looking like the entire ocean is peeling over with the lip.

Falling off here is almost a guarantee of hitting the razor sharp coral reef below, which wouldn’t be so bad if the locals didn’t insist on using fresh Tahitian lime juice to sterilise the reef cuts. Ouch.

3. Shipsterns (Tasmania, Australia)

Set along a remote length of pristine Tasmanian coastline, you could almost call this area picturesque if the wave itself wasn’t so ugly.

Raw Antarctic swells come out of deep ocean and jack up into a roaring righthander in front of the cliff which gives the spot its name. The uneven reef causes weird steps and bubbles in the wave, which are always a pleasant surprise when you’re still trying to navigate the drop down the face.

Photo by jurvetson

4. Dungeons (Cape Town, South Africa)

It’s not that shallow and it doesn’t break in front of any rocks, but it is located off the tip of South Africa in the freezing Southern Ocean in shark infested waters. Dungeons regularly holds waves up to 70 feet, which is why organisers have chosen to hold the annual Big Wave Africa contest here since 1999.

5. Pipeline (Oahu, Hawaii)

The shallow lava reef that shapes Pipe’s famous round tube is actually full of trenches and bumps -meaning a nasty old time for anyone falling out of the lip from 12 feet above. Which happens with surprisingly regularity, even to the experienced locals.

Perhaps almost as dangerous are the insane crowds that flock to Pipe any time it gets good, with fearless Hawaiians competing with pros, wannabes and tourists for the set waves.

Photo by felipeskroski

6. Desert Point (Lombok, Indonesia)

This beautiful lefthander peels over very shallow coral somewhere off the dusty island of Lombok. The wave is less dangerous than the hazards of extreme boredom during flat spells (there’s nothing on land but a few run down losemans), overcrowding, contracting malaria and the fact that medical access is hours away.

7. The Cave (Ericeira, Portugal)

With all the ingredients that a dangerous wave should have, including a shallow reef, urchins and hot-tempered Latino locals, its not surprising The Cave has been described as Europe’s heaviest wave. It was once the preserve of Portugal’s bodyboarding set, but pros like Tiago Pires have been taking it on in recent years – and surviving.

Photo by bevankoopman

8. Lunada Bay (California, USA)

Perhaps one of the best right handers in California, Lunada is a great performance wave at six feet but it also handles swell right up to 20 feet. It’s not an overly dangerous wave in itself, but the locals are another matter.

Visiting surfers have reported slashed tyres, rocks thrown, fist fights and a seemingly disinterested local police force. You’re on your own here.

9. Gringos (Arica, Chile)

Chile has a bunch of waves as equally as heavy and urchin-infested as this one but El Gringo is included in this list because of the damage it did to the pro surfers who surfed it in 2007’s WCT event. There were numerous broken boards, embedded urchin spines and slashed heads. And they surf for a living. Imagine what it’d do to you?

10. Tarqua (Lagos, Nigeria)

The good news is that this beach break located at the entrance to the Lagoon of Iddo in Lagos is often a fun, wedging peak. The bad news is the 60 million litres of raw sewage and tonnes of industrial waste produced by the 8 million inhabitants of Lagos every year that flows out into the ocean. Other hazards include floating carcasses, rubbish and the occasional mugging on the beach.

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Frontside Air Reverse

2009-09-11T01:07:00.000-07:00

Frontside Air Reverse

Once you have learned to consistently complete basic maneuvers in surfing you can expand your horizons by learning new maneuvers, such as the frontside air reverse. Air reverses are my favourite move in surfing, and are also one of the hardest to learn. They involve a 270-degree rotation in the air to a backwards landing where your fins will catch and spin you into a full 360.

When dropping into the wave, you need to stay between the middle and the top of the wave to gain as much speed as possible. Speed and timing are the most important things for this trick. Look ahead for a steep section that is just about to break. It is easiest to do this trick on a closeout, but you can do them on steep open-faced waves too.

When you find the section approach it the same way you would a frontside straight air. From the middle of the wave bottom turn up the face gradually, projecting your board at a 30 to 45 degree angle off of the curling lip. Make sure to conserve your speed through the bottom turn. Keep your eyes focused on the part of the lip you are about to launch off. Stay low through your bottom turn, and aim for the steepest part of the lip.

Just before you leave the lip your shoulders and upper body should be twisting into the spin. This will initiate your spin, and put you in a good position while in the air. Follow your back foot, through the air as you push the tail of your board towards the beach. While pushing on your tail be sure that your body is centred over your board, and your centre of gravity is low.

As you're spinning look down over your toe side rail to spot your landing. Focus on where you are going to land for the rest of the spin. Bend your knees and keep your tail a bit higher than your nose so you don’t tail dive. Stomp the landing. Try to land with your tail pointing straight into shore, and your weight centred over your front foot.

Your feet will most likely be a little farther forward than usual so look over your shoulder (the one farthest from the beach) to finish the trick and get your nose pointed back towards the beach. If you land over your fins your board will want to keep spinning so just let it spin while keeping low and centered. Once the spin is complete look for the next section and try to hit the lip.

Frontside air reverses are a great trick that can lead you away from basic maneuvers into the future of surfing. Get a video of Taj Burrow and put it in slow motion if you want to learn this trick properly. He’s got these wired.

Frontside Air

2009-09-10T01:04:00.000-07:00

Frontside Air

The frontside Air is considered a basic maneuver in today's new school era of surfing, and although, in my opinion, it is the easiest air to complete, it is still very challenging. Before attempting this maneuver you should have your cutbacks, floaters, and re-entry's down, and your surfing should be stylish and solid.

Once you have these manuevers wired catch a wave that is between two and five feet with some power and wall. You are going to need a lot of speed so pump down the line, staying between the middle and the top of the wave, generating all the speed you can. Look for a section that is about to close out, and bottom turn from the middle of the wave toward the section that is just about to break.

Carry as much speed as you can toward the curling lip by bending your knees and powering through the bottom turn. At this point your eyes should be focused on the part of the lip where you are planning to launch off, and your board should be aimed off the lip into the air above. Now, you just have to carry your momentum off the lip into the air. Make sure your board is flat on the lip when you take off, and don't try to go too high at first because you will end up flailing. To enter into the air you need to drive your momentum off the top of the wave by pushing off the tail of your board.

When entering the air turn the nose of your board towards the beach by straightening out your back leg slightly. Pull your knees up to your chest to stay in control and to stay stylish in the air. Make sure you are over top of your board, and not leaning back too far. You can add different variations to the air at this point by doing double grabs, mute grabs, frontside grabs etc.

Look down in front of you to spot your landing, let go of your grab (if you chose to do one), and extend your legs slightly so your knees can absorb the impact. It is best to land in the foam because it is the softest spot. Try to land with your board flat on the wave. As soon as your board hits the water bend your knees, and stay centered over your front foot. This part can be a little bumpy so stay low and centered. Ride out of the foam and be stoked because you just landed a tricky maneuver.

Frontside airs can be preformed in many different ways, but in my opinion look the best when you use the wave as a ramp to guide you in to the air, not when you ollie off the wave. Get a video of Taj Burrow, and study it, because nobody does frontside airs better than him.

Speed on a Backside Wave

2009-09-09T00:59:00.000-07:00

Speed on a Backside Wave

Getting speed on a backside wave is a little more difficult than getting speed on a frontside wave, but you follow the same idea. All you have to remember is to stay high on the wave, and you’ll have success getting all the speed you need to make sections.

Paddle for a backside wave. As you’re paddling angle your board towards the open face and pop to your feet as soon as possible. When you reach your feet get back to the top of the wave by pumping. Your back foot should be farther forward than it would be if you were doing a turn. This will enable you to get on the flat part of your board therefore making it easier to get speed. Use pressure from your back foot to turn your board up the wave.

Your front foot should guide you and drive your board up the wave. This first mini pump is the most important because it will give you speed for the rest of the wave. When you reach the top of the wave you can do your first full pump. Put pressure on your the toe side edge of your front foot, as you bend your knees. Drive down towards the middle of the wave with as much power as you can. Watch the wave ahead of you by looking over your leading shoulder, and stay low with your arms in front of your body pointed down the line. This will keep your momentum going forward.

When you reach the middle of the wave drive back up to the top by putting pressure on the heel side edge of your front foot. Push hard on your back foot while lifting your front foot. Your body will extend when you go up the wave, so try to keep your arms in front of your chest pointed down the line. Watch the place on the wave where you are going and the shape of the wave down the line. Drive up the wave as hard as you can to get as much speed out of the pump as possible. When you reach the top of the wave go straight into your next pump to get even more speed. After pumping through a few sections try banking a hard power turn or boosting an air to make full use of your speed.

Over time pumping becomes natural and you will learn how to take one pump and utilize the speed you get for the whole wave. A great example of getting speed on small waves is Taj Burrows’ section in Untitled.

Backside Bottom Turn

2009-09-08T00:55:00.000-07:00

Backside Bottom Turn

Like the Frontside Bottom Turn the Backside Bottom Turn is the most important move in surfing. The backside bottom turn is essential for every other move in your backside repertoire. It allows you to gain speed, hit the lip, and change your position on the wave.

Start by catching a backside wave, and riding down the face with as much speed as possible. Ride straight down the wave, and when you reach the flats start your bottom turn right away. To start your Bottom Turn bend your knees, lean on your heel side edge, and turn your upper body in the direction you want to go. Look over your front shoulder. This will initiate the turn and allow you to see the lip you are about to hit. Your weight should be evenly distributed between your front and back feet. Ride through the beginning of the turn without dragging your heels in the water in-order to maximize your speed. It is very important to keep your original line through the turn so you don’t loose any speed. Try to pick the right line from the beginning. When you begin to go back up the wave transfer most of your weight to your back foot, and drive up the wave face to gain the maximum amount of speed possible for the wave. Focus on the section of the lip you want to hit, and on pushing with your back leg. Finish your powerful bottom turn with a big bash or a nice cutback, and continue down the line to do another one. When you get the bottom turn down try to hit the lip vertically or even over vertically.

Just like the frontside bottom turn the most important thing is you’re attention to detail. If you don’t make any little mistakes, and if you’re using the wave properly you will always be gaining speed for your next move.

Backside Floaters

2009-09-07T00:50:00.000-07:00

The Backside Floater

The backside floater is a great move that allows you to make sections, finish off a wave, or gain speed for your next trick. If you surf beach breaks points or reefs, it is essential to have a good backside floater in your repertoire of tricks.

Start by catching a backside wave, and pumping down the line. It is important to stay high while pumping in-order to gain as much speed as possible. Watch the shape of the wave as your pumping. You should be looking for a section that is going to break just in front of you. When you find a section, start your bottom turn from the middle of the wave at a 20 to 30 degree angle. This will keep your momentum going forward enabling you to gain distance while doing your floater. When you’re bottom turning up the wave face watch where you are going to place your board on the lip.

Stay low and try to place your board on top of the lip as clean as possible to conserve speed. When you’ve got your board onto the lip change the pressure of your feet from your heel side edge to your toe side edge, and apply pressure to your front foot. This will make sure you continue moving forward, and don’t get left out the back. Ride along on top of the breaking lip until you begin to loose your speed, or you see that the wave is closing out. Watch the line of the breaking lip while staying low and balanced.

You have two options at this point. You can ride off the top of the wave with the lip, or you can ollie out in front of the lip, landing at the bottom of the transition. Your choice will depend on the wave. If the wave is mushy and not breaking very hard you should just ride off with the lip, but if it’s hollow or big you need to ollie off the top. Be sure to spot your landing before you plan to get off the lip. Look for the softest spot to land. When riding off the lip you can usually just turn your board towards shore by putting weight on your toes. Stay low, and start your next bottom turn when you reach the green using the speed from the floater. When ollieing off the lip push down on your toes, and pop off the lip using your back foot to ollie out in front of the barrelling lip. Watch the landing and try to keep your board flat in the air. Your body will want to extend in the air so try to keep your style together. Land at the bottom of the wave with your board flat on the water. Bend your knees to absorb the landing, and ride out the white water bounce.

Floaters are a great move to know because of their versatility. Start out doing floaters on smaller mushy waves using them to gain speed and finish off waves. As you get more comfortable step up to heavier, bigger waves that force you to ollie off the lip. Grip it and rip it.

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2009-09-06T06:27:00.001-07:00

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2009-09-06T05:39:00.000-07:00

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Backside Re-entry

2009-09-06T00:45:00.000-07:00

Backside Re-entry

The backside re-entry is a fairly basic move, but it requires excellent timing and body positioning to be completed effectively.

Start your bottom turn with a good amount of speed toward the steepest part of the wave where the lip is just about to break. Once you've started the bottom turn, fully commit to it, and drive through it to gain momentum and to get completely vertical.

Your eyes should be focused on the lip you are about to hit, and you should have your shoulders rotated so your upper body is facing the lip. Rotating your shoulders will allow you to get as vertical as possible. Your knees should be bent with most of the pressure on your back foot. Proceed straight up the wave until your board hits the breaking lip. Now you need to change directions so your momentum does not carry you off the top of the wave.

When about one third of your board is above the lip turn your leading shoulder down back towards the beach. This will cause your lower body and your board to follow your upper body and rotate toward the beach. You should be leaning over your front foot with a low center of gravity while extending your back leg. The back leg extension will push your tail out the back of the wave, adding spray and style to the move, and it may cause your tail to slide so be ready. At this point you will be facing back down toward your landing place, and you may get stuck in the falling lip while you're re-entering the wave. Stay low and centered over your front foot until the wave pulls you back in. Once you feel your momentum going down the wave switch your weight from your front foot to your back foot in order to stop yourself from nose diving. Absorb the landing with your knees and continue to ride down the line.

To make this maneuver more challenging you can extend your board further above the lip, and you can try to go over vertical on the way up. The backside re-entry is a move that is great for steep point breaks because they are easy to do over and over again plus they never get boring.

backside Air Reverse

2009-09-05T00:40:00.000-07:00

The Backside Air Reverse

The backside air reverse is a trick that I had a really hard time with.

The spin in the air feels natural so it’s easy to come off the lip and spin in the air, but landing backwards and continuing the spin into a 360 is very difficult.

Catch a wedgy backside wave that’s waist to chest high and has a steep close out section at the end. Pump down the line to get enough speed so you can launch into the air. You want a lot of speed, but you need to be in control to make an air. Bottom turn at a 20-30 degree angle to project yourself off the wave where the lip meets the whitewash. Stay low and centered with your eyes focused on the lip. Angle your board down the line, or even a little bit in front of the wave to adjust for the movement of the wave while you are in the air.

If your board is pointed out the back when you start the spin you will end up out the back when you land. Bend your knees and use your body like a spring to pop into the air. When the top half of your board is out of the water (when your front foot is leaving the water) you want to turn your shoulders into the spin, push your back foot into the spin, and spring off the lip. You don’t want to kick your foot out; you want to push it to initiate the spin.

Once in the air your body will want to extend so suck your legs and board up for style and height.

You’ll be spinning blind so it will be hard to see where you are going. Repetition will make this feel comfortable. Try to keep your board level in the air while staying low and centered (this is probably something to work on once you get these down). Your front knee should be bent and your back leg should be extended pushing the tail around. Your stance should be a bit wider than usual for better balance so stay low for style points. Ideally your arms should be bent at a 90 degree angle by your sides for balance; but just do whatever comes naturally until you’ve got these wired, then you can make minor adjustments. Look down between your legs on your toe-side rail so you can time your landing. You won’t be able to see exactly where you’re going to land, but at least you can see the landing come and get ready for the impact.

Bend your knees and absorb the landing. Be strong on the landing so you don’t fall back into a layback (I used to do that a lot. It looks really bad!). Stay low with a wide stance, and most of your weight on your back foot. The weight on your back foot will help you continue with the momentum of the wave, and help you finish your spin by re-connecting your fins to the water. Be careful not to tail dive at this stage because you’re backwards. Once you start spinning transfer your weight to your front foot while staying low. You’re done; look for the next section and bust out a big combo for good measure.

Check out Taj on these ones because he’s the master. It took me almost 2 years to get this trick down, but all those kook-outs are worth it now. Be persistent, keep trying to stick them and you’ll get it one day. KEYS:

Layback Snap

2009-09-04T00:38:00.000-07:00

The Layback Snap

Laybacks are one of my favourite moves because they are so unpredictable.

You never know what will happen. You could kick your tail out the back and fall right away; or you could hang on with one foot and pull the best move of your life. There are a few keys, but you just have to go with the flow, and trust yourself and the wave on your recovery.

Approach the section on your forehand with speed. You can either do laybacks on steep sections or on closeouts that aren’t bowling too much.

You want about as much speed as you would for a little frontside air. Start your bottom turn earlier than you would if you were going to hit the lip to get to the lip before it breaks. A 50 to 70 degree angle is what you want.

Stay low, focus on the section, and get ready to push your back leg out.

You want to start laybacks early so you don’t kick your fins out the back, and loose control. Half way up the wave is a good place to initiate the turn. Initialize the layback by leaning back, sticking your back arm in the water and pushing as hard as you can on your back leg. You want this to be a smooth motion. Your arm will serve as a pivot point and give you stability through the turn. Don’t just kick you tail out of the water with all the power you can because you will loose control. Push hard through the turn with your back foot to throw buckets out the back while still in control. You won’t be able to see to much once your tail has kicked out and you’re laying back in the wash so you just have to go on feeling. Hold on!

Don’t give up at this point because sometimes miracles can happen. Even if you’re hanging on with one toe try to make it. Once your board has turned as far as possible try to pull it back towards you and under your body. If you choose the right section to do a layback on the wave will help you get back up, but having a strong core and stomach muscles will help. The longer you wait to get up the harder it will be. Getting your board close to you by pulling with your feet and bending your knees combined with using the wave against your back will get you to your feet. Ride out of the wash with style and look for the next section.

Layback snaps are a tricky move. A lot of trial and error goes into learning them, but when you finally get lucky and land one it will all be worth it. Slater and AI are the best in the game at laybacks, so watch them for inspiration. Do your sit-ups too.

Frontside Roundhouse

2009-09-03T00:34:00.000-07:00

The Frontside Roundhouse

I love doing frontside roundhouses. They are a great move because they are useful in all conditions, and they force you to work on both your frontside and backside surfing all on the same wave. The main objective of the frontside roundhouse is to get your board back to the power source of the wave so you will be able to gain speed for your next move.

Start by catching a frontside wave. Cruise down the line, do a floater, and hit the lip. Look for a section that is fairly flat or that is not going to break at all. Start your bottom turn far enough in front of the foam ball so you will be able to turn all the way around and hit the lip on your backhand before it passes you, but not to far because you will loose all your speed. Bottom turn at a 40 to 50 degree angle and drive up the wave using your back leg.

When you reach the middle of the wave initiate your roundhouse by changing your weight to your heel side edge. Try to set your rail right the first time so you will be able to flow through the turn smoothly. Look over your leading shoulder back towards the foam ball, and reach towards the water with your leading hand. Use your back foot to drive through the turn while your front foot guides you. Once you have completed the first part of the turn you will be headed back towards the foam ball.

Keep your eyes focused on the part of the foam ball you want to hit. It is best to hit the section where the lip is just beginning to break at the edge of the foam ball. Bend your knees and keep driving through what is now a backside bottom turn.

Try to go as vertical as you can on your backside snap. As the tip of your board goes over the top of the lip turn your leading shoulder down and back towards the beach. This will cause your board to snap off the lip. Push your back foot through the turn while staying low and centered over your front foot. Look down the line when you have finished the turn, and use the speed you’ve gained for your next bottom turn.

This can be a difficult move to learn because timing is so important, but keep trying because it is useful once you get it down. Check out Taylor Knox, Kelly, and Parko for this one.

Frontside off the Lip

2009-09-02T00:29:00.000-07:00

Frontside off the Lip

The frontside off the lip is a great move because it gives the same weightless feeling you get from an air. It involves hitting the lip and kicking your tail out the back of the wave to release your fins. Timing and balance are critical throughout the entire move because when your fins release out the back you have no control. So Get ready to hold on and go with the flow.

Catch a frontside wave with some power and a nice lip. A crumbly mushburger won't do it for this trick. Look for some speed! You need just a little bit less than you would for an air. Start your bottom turn out on the flats. You want to accelerate through the bottom turn, and use your body like a spring to crack the lip and kick your tail out. Get low and put your trailing arm in the water for balance and leverage. Really lean into it.

You should always be looking at the section you want to hit, even before you do your bottom turn. Bottom turn at a 75 degree angle to start and as you get more and more comfortable go as straight up as you can. As you turn up the wave your body will want to extend. Don't stand straight up and get all stiff, just try to do what feels natural. Open your shoulders into the turn as top half of your board comes over the lip.

The difference between a normal reo(re-entry) and a fins out reo is in how long you wait before you change direction and kick your fins out. Opening your shoulders will initiate the reo, and pushing out your back leg will turn it into a fins out reo. Keep watching the lip ahead and below you as you pivot over the middle of your board on the lip. Timing and balance are very important at this stage; If your weight is too far back you'll fall backwards off of the lip onto the flats and your board will land on top of you, and if you're weight is too far forward or you turn to late you'll be left out the back of the wave. You want to end up with the lip in between your feet with your back leg extended, and pushing through the turn. Your front leg should be bent in a straight line over your body, from your leading shoulder to your knee, over your front foot. Stay low and go with the flow as your board pivots.

Try to look at the transition of the wave so you can get ready for your decent. As the lip starts to fall you will hopefully be going with it. If it's a heavy section step on your tail in preparation for an air drop; if not cruise back into the wave and hit the lip again.

Taj Burrow calls these the frontside waft in Globes new, "TB's Book of Hot Surfing," and if you're serious about your surfing you should pick this book up. It has everything from waxing your board to 360 airs. Mick Fanning and Parko are a few others who do these well.

Backside Roundhouse

2009-09-01T00:27:00.000-07:00

video:Jeremy Koreski

Backside Roundhouse

The Backside Roundhouse is a trick that you don’t see people do very often, but it is effective for getting back to the source of the wave where you can get speed for your next move. It also works on your backside cutback and your frontside re-entry on the same wave.

Catch a backside wave and cruise down the line. Look for a section just ahead of the bowl that is not going to break, and has a fading shoulder.

Start your bottom turn with a maximum amount of speed at a 40 to 50 degree angle towards the open face. Make sure you are far enough in front of the foam ball to do a complete roundhouse and hit the foam ball before it passes you by. Bend your knees and look at the place where you want to start your turn. When you reach the middle of the wave initiate the turn by leaning on your toe side rail. Try to pick the perfect spot to start your turn so you don’t have to reset your rail half way through. Use the full length of your rail, and even pressure from both feet to flow smoothly through the turn.

Get your body as close to the water as possible, and bend at the knees not at the waist. Place your trailing hand in the water for stability and style. Lean into the turn and feel the rail doing the work. Once you’ve completed the first portion of the turn you should be focused on the section you’re about to hit on your forehand. Most of your weight should be on your front leg driving through what is now a frontside bottom turn. Go straight up, and hit the steepest section of the lip right beside the foam ball.

This section will have the most power so when you hit it you should get a little boost of speed to get back on to the open face of the wave. To get back onto the left you will have to hit the lip and allow your tail to drift until the nose of your board is facing back in the other direction. To do this put a bit more pressure on your tail as your coming off the top to kick the tail out. This will release your fins, and your tail will drift. Stay low and centered. When you land your board will be pointed towards the open face so start your bottom turn and do it again.

The backside Roundhouse is a relatively easy move, but if you add tweaks to it, like a straight up frontside hit, it can be challenging. Start out by just getting the backside cutback portion of it down, and then move on to more difficult versions like the backside barrel roundhouse combo.

Walk with the board skateboard trick tip

2009-08-20T03:36:00.000-07:00

This trick is so easy, and meant ony for beginning skaters... doing this in a pro contest will make people laugh (wich isn't always that bad).

Stand with your front foot on the nose of your board, and your back foot on the tail of your board.
Press down your front foot (like a manual), go about 45 degrees to the right or to the left do the same with the other foot and...

now you are walking with your board!

It's a bit like snowboarding, they walk like that too.

Tip for ollieing decks skateboard trick tip

2009-08-19T03:35:00.000-07:00

If you are scared to ollie something (when you think your truck on the back will hook on to the object and fall), then this is a good tip.

First try to get over the object or decks, then while your in the air jump off your board... do this a few times and show it to somebody, when the person who looks at you thinks, you can get over it easily, try to land it...not to fast and not to slow.

Tail stop 180 NO skateboard trick tip

2009-08-18T03:33:00.000-07:00

Its not even a trick but its fun to do
Ride mot so slow and not so fast now you hawe to stop on the tail and while dong that turn 180 realy fast ,the faster you do it the better it looks.

Tip:lean to the side you turn to

Surfing on the board skateboard trick tip

2009-08-17T03:32:00.000-07:00

This is easy!!!

1. Lay down with your belly on the board.
2. Push yourself forwards with your hands (the way surfers peddle in the water to go to a wave).
3. If you go fast stand up en get on the board.

You could swing your arms like a surfer afterwards and make big turns.

I'm not saying this trick is cool, but it sure is fun to do once in a while.

Shove-it skateboard trick tip

2009-08-16T03:29:00.000-07:00

This is one of the most easy skateboard tricks. You don't even have to be able to ollie!

Place your feet like the picture below.

Now pull your front foot forward (to the toe side of the board) and your back foot backward (to the heelside of the tail) while jumping up.You don't have to pop, it's more like a scraping motion.

The board should turn a 180.

When it has done a complete 180, catch the board and ride on.

It's a very easy trick so you better only use it in combinations.

Shifty skateboard trick tip

2009-08-15T03:27:00.000-07:00

The first thing to do here is learn to ollie and maybe a backside or frontside 180

1. You start your ollie..
2. Turn like half 180 (90 degrees)
If you can only do this frontside.. then try this frontside, if backside? try backside
3. Now the final and hardest step: Turn your body back and shift your front foot back.

The thing you have done now is a shifty (half 180, half 180 back so you right away normal(goofy or regular)

If you can't do a shifty full(like realy turn 90 degrees and 90 degrees back then you have a little shifty (also known as Tweak)

If you want to do this trick perfect, then it's really hard.

You can also combine this trick. For example: kickflip, heelflip popshovit, and more.. but it's really hard

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2009-08-14T19:44:00.000-07:00

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Pyle Flip skateboard trick tip

2009-08-14T03:23:00.000-07:00

This is the wickedest Old School Trick Ever!

1.First stand on your board and move... not that fast if your not comfortable

2. Then you pop the board up to your hands usin your back foot to push on the tail (this is the hardest part...seriously)

3.Now once you have done that you spin about 180 degrees on your foot without it leaving the ground

4.After you are 180 degrees away from the starting position you jump in the air and do a 180... while your in the air place you board under you feet

5. When your landing keep your feet on the hardware and say "yeah wut biotch top that" jk but u can say that if you want!?!?

Simple instructions for a stupid person

stand on board
pop board up to hand
pivet 180 degrees on 1 foot
jump 180 degrees
put the board under you in the air
land on board

do this all on a fast motion!

Pumping in a ramp skateboard trick tip

2009-08-13T03:19:00.000-07:00

Start at the bottom of a halfpipe. Give yourself a push to get going. When riding on a side of a halfpipe, bend your knees.

When you feel you're loosing speed, stretch your knees. Push your board high on the ramp.

Then put all of your weight back on the board. Push it down the ramp with lots of power. Try to push the board trough the ramp.

Now you should be riding to the other side of the halfpipe with more speed than you had when you started.

Repeat this progress on the other side. If you keep doing this, you will be going higher and higher.
In the beginning, it may not work, but just keep practising!

Power ollie skateboard trick tip

2009-08-12T03:17:00.000-07:00

1. First to do a power ollie, find a small ledge that's smooth and is not slippery. As you get better you could go to higher ledges.
2. Now place your tail on the edge of the ledge.
3. Start to bend your knees and lower your deck until its about level with the ledge
4. Push your tail down, slide your front foot forward, and lean foward like you would for a normal ollie. This will make your board ollie out of the position that it's in.
5. If you did it right you should now be dropping toward the ground with your board leveled out.
6. Land

Penguin Walk skateboard trick tip

2009-08-11T03:14:00.000-07:00

This is a very basic trick that even someone with no skateboard experience can do. This also means that it doesn't look cool, but who cares about that, right?

1. Put one foot on the nose and one foot on the tail.
2. Now start to walk by pivoting your tail 45 degrees. 3. Then pivot 45 degrees on the nose. 4. Repeat step 2 and 3 as much as you want.

This looks like you are walking with the board.

Ollie South skateboard trick tip

2009-08-10T03:13:00.000-07:00

The ollie south is done just the same as an ollie north, but you take your back foot off the board instead of your front foot.

1. Ride at a steady pace.
2.Ollie sort of high.
3.Take back foot off of board and behind tail.
4. Put your back foot back on and land.

This sure seems easy, but it isn't. Do I need to warn you? Yes, you can get your board in your nuts with this trick, so first ollie and then take of your foot... if you take your back foot off to soon, the tail of your board will go high, and you can figure where the board goes...

Have fun sk8n'

Ollie skateboard trick tip

2009-08-09T03:10:00.000-07:00

This is the most important skatboarding trick. Practise it a lot untill you can pull it off real good! Whitout the ollie, you'll be a fucked up skater forever!

Ok, first try this trick without riding. When you've mastered it, you can use it for doing some gaps.

The picture below shows how you should place your feet to do the trick.

Quikly push the end of the tail with your back foot (= pop). Make sure your tail doesn't touch the ground. While pushing the tail, jump up real high. You board should come up with you.

When you reach the highest point, try to level out your board so it's horizontal. To do so, slide your front foot to the nose of the board. Make sure to stay above the board.

Now just slide your front foot back and stay on it untill you're back on the ground. When you land, bend your knees to absorb the inpact of the trick.

Once you've mastered this trick, you can really start skating!

Nollie cab bs and fs skateboard trick tip

2009-08-08T03:08:00.000-07:00

I bet alot of you are now thinking...... nollie 360...... are you crazy..... welll don't, because they are very very easy..

Start by getting your nollie 180's down perfect both ways... so you can do them at a moderate speed and maybe down or off something small - like a curb.

Then roll on flatground at a very average speed to start with... I found doing them fs was easiest at first... so have your front foot straight over your nose... so your full foot is covering the nose and your toes are parallel to the edge in front of you. Have your back foot just before your back bolts so you can pivot when you land.

Then pop and when you pop, try to turn about 45 degrees before you leave the floor. Make sure you spin as fast as you can whilst you scrape your foot up the board.

When you have completed the 180 turn a little more to start with and land 270. Try to land with your feet before the back bolts so you can pivot easily.

With a bs nollie cab start with the ball of your your front foot in the concave of the heelside of your bord, give it a harder pop and longer to spin. Try to pivot it less as you willfall backwards, and it does hurt through experience.

Once you're more comfortable with these, you can try to do them without a pivot, clean round and add more speed to them.

Seriously these are so easy and do feel very good.

Nollie bs pop shove-it skateboard trick tip

2009-08-07T03:06:00.000-07:00

Alright, I got this before I could ever nollie, but it helps to know how, and I suggest you do. It is a weird trick, but simple once you get it.

1. Get some speed, but don't go too fast.

2. Have your front foot toes on the heel side corner of the nose. Have your other foot flat across the board right in front of the rear screws.

3. Start pushing down on the nose, hard enough to pop it off the ground, and at the same time sweep your back foot behind you, like you would a varial kickflip or 360 flip ( the harder you sweep your back foot the more it spins).

4. Clear your feet and don't let them touch the board untill you see it's done the 180 degree rotation.

5. Catch it and roll away.

Quick tip: I found out it helps to jump back a little when you do this, because the board tends to move behind you.

Nollie bs 360 shove-it skateboard trick tip

2009-08-06T03:03:00.000-07:00

This is a fun and moderately easy trick. You might have already learned nollies and nollie bs shove-its before trying this trick but it's up to you.

1. Place your front foot on the nose hanging off your toes a little and put your back foot just behind the back bolts in a nollie position.

2. Start riding at a comfortable speed.

3. Now scoop the nose by pushing down and pulling your foot behind you. Give the board a little nudge in the direction the board is spinning with your back foot (but be carefully using your back foot to much will cause the board to flip and landing in primo, which hurts).

4. Make sure you use enough power to get the board to spin the full 360 degrees rotation.

5. Watch the board as it spins. Then at about 320 degrees, start catching the board with your back foot. Then just guide the board into your front foot.

Stomp and ride away.

Practice and have fun with it!

Nollie skateboard trick tip

2009-08-05T02:59:00.000-07:00

The nollie is actually an ollie on the nose of your board (nose ollie, nollie).

To do a nollie put your feet like you are doing an ollie. Instead of puttig your feet on the tail of the board put them on the nose. Your front foot is on the nose of your board, your back foot should be somewhere in front of your back bolts.
And than just pop your board.
... and slide your back foot backwards.
Good job u just did a nollie. Hint: look backwards in the beginning, and don't go too fast when practising this trick! It might feel funny in the beginning, but once you get used to it, it feels great!

Hop off skateboard trick tip

2009-08-04T02:56:00.000-07:00

This is my first home-made trick, so don't expect to much...

1. Ride parallel with a ledge (or anything that you can jump on).

2. Jump off your deck, onto the ledge (make sure your deck is still riding forward).

3. Jump off the ledge (or whatever jumped on) and land on your deck again.

4. Ride on.

You could also do some variations like: jump and make a 180 bodyvarial on and 180 bodyvarial off, that kinda things. This trick can be done frontside or backside, whatever you prefer.

Good luck!

Fakie 360 shuve-it skateboard trick tip

2009-08-03T02:53:00.000-07:00

1. ride fakie and do you're feet in a rate possion
the possion of you're feet are the same for a SHUVE-IT

2.don't be a fool and shoot you're board away
stay in control and think what you must do. now shuve you're board
with CONTROL. ok this trick is hard to land it first try
so take it easy on you take time.

3.if you got this you can do the variaties like nollie, normal stance,
swutch

4.and if you got the trick for the first time and you're friends see it don't be happy you must ride cool as you can if you can the trick for many years

End over skateboard trick tip

2009-08-02T02:52:00.000-07:00

Okay this one is simple so it's a short one. End overs are used as a transition trick in freestyle combo's.

To get them right, put your front foot on the nose of your board and your back foot on the tail of your board.

1) Know how to manual and how to pivot.

2) Going forward, do a 180 NOSE pivot, frontside or backside, your choice, just don't raise the wheels too high and keep your weight nicely centered.

3)Now, do a pivot again, your body has to turn the same way as in the first pivot.

4) Your body has done a full 360 if you did it right.

5) Do it again a few times, if you practise hard, you can combine them with a few 360,540 or 720 spins

GOOD LUCK AND ROCK ON!!!

Casper fingerflip skateboard trick tip

2009-08-01T02:45:00.000-07:00

You have to be able to get in casper, you don't need to know how to do fingerflips, but it could be useful to learn them first.

You can roll fakie or stand still. 1. Flip the board over into a casper.
2. Then grab the nose (above the front wheels works too) with your front hand (leave both feet were they are)
3. Jump up while twisting your wrist. Twist your wrist so the board does a fingerflip.

You could let it spin only 180 degrees, but you can also add more rotations if you get better at it.

4. Watch for the griptape to come back up and put your feet on the board again.

Sorry I don't have any pictures or vids or a better way of telling it but please send me a comment or an email.

Bs halfcab skateboard trick tip

2009-07-30T02:39:00.000-07:00

Okay, it would really help if you can fakie ollie already (obviously). And if you can do a regular 180, it helps a ton, but it's not required. A lot of people find half-cabs easier than regular 180's, but I think these look a lot cooler.

A Half cab is just a 180, but in fakie position. It is a half cabalerial (which is a 360 in fakie position).

Start with your feet in a fakie ollie position, but some people like to leave their heel hanging off a tad, and others like to slant their feet a little. It really depends on preference.

Now, before you pop your ollie, start to spin your shoulders and upper body. When your body is about to hit 90 degrees, pop the ollie, and your feet will follow around with your shoulders.

Around this point people usually can't keep with their board. They let their back foot come off of it, but not you, your going to stay with the board and land it first try, right? Wrong. If you land it first try, then good for you. But if you can't then it's normal, and go back and try it again. Stay with that board.

I've noticed that trick tips on a website don't help as much as an actual person beside you walking you through it does, so try to get one of your friends who knows what he's talking about to help you. This trick is quite easy, it's all in the shoulders.

Bomb drop fingerflip skateboard trick tip

2009-07-29T02:37:00.000-07:00

To do a bomb drop finger flip you have to be able to do bomb drops pretty well.
1.You grab the board whith your front hand where you want.
2.Here's the hardest part of the trick: jump up and flip the board with your hand, while shoving the board under your feet.
3.Now land on the bolts and be proud of yourself

You can do them of objects too

Board to board

2009-07-28T02:33:00.000-07:00

You need two skateboards to do this move.

Before you drop in make sure the other board is in the middle of the half-pipe

1. On one of the boards drop in off a half-pipe (2-4 ft.)

> 2. When you start to get close to the other board jump onto it and ride the half-pipe like you would.

3. And thats it!

!!!This may take more than one try to land.

Rock to fakie skateboard trick tip

2009-07-26T03:39:00.001-07:00

Rock and roll is the most easy lip trick. It can be performed on a halfpipe, quarterpipe and some other stuff.... be creative! I'm going to explain this trick for a halfpipe.

Drop in (or pump to the top of the ramp). Just make sure you have enough of speed.

Just start in the ollie position , maybe you could put your front foot a little more towards the nose.

Ok, you're riding on the pipe. Ride to the top.

Lean forward so your board touches the edge like you're doing a boardslide on it.

Now lean back again. Put your weight on the tail of your board.

Ride back fakie or kickturn and ride back down the ramp.

Important: This trick can be really cool if done right! Most of the people just put their front trucks over the edge for a little while and think they're cool. Don' be a wuss like them!
Variations: Approach the ramp in fakie position. Then put your back trucks over the edge (far enough!) and lean forward to come back down.

1foot ollie and nothing air skateboard trick tip

2009-07-26T02:28:00.000-07:00

1foot ollie:
A 1foot ollie is when you ollie and your front foot slips over the nose ,so your foot is off...most of you might know this trick as a ollie north..but its original name is 1foot ollie..

To do this you have to be able to ollie, it doesn't matter how high you ollie ,you only need some hard pop-power.
1. Ride at any speed you like.
2. Stand like an ollie but with your front foot halfway on the screws.
3. Put your entire body weight on top of the tail truck.
4. Do an ollie but now kick your front foot over the nose... look at your board and land like an ollie.

Nothing:

A nothing air is when you do a no footed ollie.
You have to be able to do a 1foot ollie.

1. Do a 1foot ollie..
2. Let your backfoot slip off just a moment after you did the frontfoot.
3. Make a small circular movement with your backfoot so you can land it.

Gooooooood luck

HISTORY OF SKATE PUNK

2009-07-12T06:32:00.000-07:00

Skate punk started in early 1980s California, where skateboarding was popular and was considered a form of rebellion. Bands such as Dr. Know, Agression, Suicidal Tendencies, Stalag 13, Agent Orange, Ill repute, JFA ect.. were the structure of the skate core scene. Bands that influenced the genre include Black Flag, JFA and Minor Threat. The 1990s saw a rise in its popularity, with skate punk bands experiencing commercial success. Events like the Warped Tour and the X-games have featured skate punk bands. Fat Wreck Chords and Epitaph Records have been home to many successful skate punk bands since the early 1990s when skate punk grew popular. By 2000, the two labels stopped signing new skate punk bands, with the exception of Pour Habit signing to Fat Wreck Chords in 2009.

Since the 1990s, skate punk has slowly grown in popularity (with the exception of the US), especially in Europe, Japan, and South America. The Japanese record label, Bells On Records is a staple in the resurgence of skate punk. It features more than 20 bands from around the world.

SKATE PUNK

2009-07-12T06:28:00.000-07:00

Skate punk (sometimes called skate core or skate rock) is a subgenre of punk rock, originally a derivative of hardcore punk, that has been popular among skateboarders. Skate punk grew from the Nardcore punk scene out of Oxnard, California. It is very similar to Nardcore, as it is fast and aggressive, yet some skate punk focuses more on melodic and harmonious vocals. Skate punk is usually also more technical than Nardcore. Many members of skate punk bands have been skateboarders. Their lyrics occasionally focus on, or at least reference, skateboarding. The skate punk music style is fast and meant to recreate the feel of skateboarding. Commonly used instruments include distorted guitars and surf rock-style drums. Many skate punk bands also fit into the genres pop punk, hardcore punk, melodic hardcore and thrashcore.

Carrying your Snowboard

2009-06-24T22:56:00.000-07:00

Snowboard Basics

2009-06-24T22:55:00.000-07:00

Snowboarding Course - Snowboard Basics

Acclimatizing yourself to your Snowboard is one of the basic essentials in our Learn Snowboarding Online Course. You need to be comfortable in moving on the slope while your feet are strapped in. Follow this Snowboarding Tip so you be able to ride the slopes with ease. Gear up on the slope and get used to your board easily with the help of our easy-to-follow steps and animation:

Snowboarding 101: Determining Your Snowboarding Skill Level

2009-06-19T22:05:00.000-07:00

Snowboarding is taking the slopes by storm. With more and more converts in this winter sport, there are now more boarders than skiers, with increased enrollees for snowboarding in various schools around the world. This exciting sport can be enjoyed by everyone, with varying skill levels and expertise. So you're not sure what skill level you are? Read on and find out from this guide.

1. The Newbie: The total beginner to having a few days of riding experience

The newbie is someone who has never boarded before, and is still orienting oneself with the basics. Checking out and learning about the snowboard equipment, discovering how to strap in the board and other basic techniques on how to fall, turn and hop on terrain, get around the slopes, and most importantly, how to stop. Beginners are in the process of learning how to turn on heel edges and toe, but are still trying to gain full control of their board.

2. The Intermediate: The boarder comfortable with common riding techniques and starting to try tricks

In the intermediate level, boarders are usually trying to focus on their balance, working on this most fundamental skill. The advancing beginner masters straight runs, riding, hopping and turning with balance. Boarders at this level can now gain a bit more confidence as they can take a bit more control of their turns and runs. With their increased riding experience, these snowboarders can already link heel and toe turns during their powder runs, as well as link turns consistently.

3. The Advanced: The shredder having the ability to ride all pistes and off-slope, with advanced tricks and skills up their sleeves

The advanced level for boarders mean mastery of carved and skidded turns, with confidence in rail riding and trying out terrain park areas. Advanced level snowboarders can now whip out those air 180s and 360s, without any problem. Freestyle tricks come out at this level, after learning the dynamics of coordination, balance and ride switches.

So at which skill level are you?

snowboarding getting started (includes lessons, equipment, clothing, tips...)

2009-06-19T21:50:00.000-07:00

Skills: If you are an experienced skier and think you can easily get to grips with snowboarding you may be in for a surprise because there are very few "skiing" skills that will be transferable. However if you have had experience at skateboarding or surfing you may find snowboarding simple to pick-up.

In the beginning: Snowboarding is easier and more straightforward than skiing. Having said that the first few days of learning to snowboard are damn difficult. You'll spend loads of time falling, sitting on your bum, and from a psychological perspective its torturous because you'll need to start right from the very beginning - so it'll be back to the baby slopes for you - augh!

Position: The fixed stance in snowboarding will take some getting used to and you'll need a good sense of balance if you want to progress rapidly. Having your feet fixed to the board instantly dictates your style (unlike in skiing where it can take years to learn to keep your skis together, knees bent, pole planting etc.) but does mean when you are not moving you'll probably be sitting on your bum. You'll also need to get to grips with the awkward shuffle action required in order to approach the chair lift. This is where your front foot remains in the binding (pointing your foot inwards at almost 90 degrees) and you hop along with the other - not ideal.

Persevere: Basically if you want to take-up snowboarding you'll just need to persevere over the first day or two or until you can feel confident with your ability to stop, control your speed and turn. Once you have learned those basics techniques you rapidly progress from the beginner to the intermediate stage.

Backside Air

2009-05-19T00:37:00.000-07:00

Backside Air

Backside airs are great to have in your repertoire of tricks. They're perfect for finishing off a wave, and they feel really smooth when you do them correctly. In my opinion they are easier to do than frontside airs because it's easier to launch off the lip on your backhand, but the landings can be a little tricky.

Start by catching a steep backside wave with a bowling end section. Steep beach breaks are an ideal place to learn this trick. While you're paddling into the wave, angle your board down the line towards the open face of the wave in order to get lots of speed off the take-off. Pop to your feet as fast as you can, and drive up the wave with a powerful pump. Remember speed is going to be the key to getting your board over the lip so try to put as much effort into pumping as you can.

When you reach the top of the wave push down on your front foot to drive down the wave to gain more speed. Watch the wave carefully because the end section that you want to launch off will be coming at you very quickly.

Start your bottom turn from in between the bottom and the middle of the wave at a 20 to 30 degree angle so that when you reach the top of the wave your board will connect with the close out. If you do too much of a bottom turn your momentum will carry you out the back of the wave when you launch off the lip so you have to be very precise. While doing your bottom turn watch the lip you are about to launch off. Your arms should be balanced on either side of you and your head and upper body should be slightly turn towards the lip. Center your weight and bend your knees before you launch off the lip. Project your momentum off the lip by riding off the steepest part of the wave, right where the whitewater meets the open face. Bend your knees and suck your board up towards your body while turning your body towards the beach, and pushing on your back leg. This will cause your board to rotate slightly so the tail of your board will be higher than the nose of your board(style purposes). Try and stay balanced over the top of your board by staying low, and try not to kick your back foot off your board like I did here.

Once you reach your high point and start to decsend, look for a place to land. You either want to land on the top of the wave(if it has closed out), or in the transition, not in the flats in front of of the wave. As you are coming down your body will extend. Keep your knees bent and try to keep your style together.

Don't land airs with straight legs, unless you want to wreck your knees and ankles. Stomp your landing, and bend your knees to absorb the shock. Ride it out, and claim it for everyone on the beach.

Once you get straight backside airs down try to do rotations or to add grabs in for variation. I think it's actually easier to do rotation airs rather than straight airs on your backhand because your momentum carries you off the lip when you spin so you might want to try those if your finding straight airs too difficult. Check out Taj, and Andy for these ones.

Backside Bottom Turn

2009-05-14T00:34:00.000-07:00

Backside Bottom Turn

The Backside Floater

2009-05-11T00:36:00.001-07:00

The Backside Floater

The backside floater is a great move that allows you to make sections, finish off a wave, or gain speed for your next trick. If you surf beach breaks points or reefs, it is essential to have a good backside floater in your repertoire of tricks.

Start by catching a backside wave, and pumping down the line. It is important to stay high while pumping in-order to gain as much speed as possible. Watch the shape of the wave as your pumping. You should be looking for a section that is going to break just in front of you. When you find a section, start your bottom turn from the middle of the wave at a 20 to 30 degree angle. This will keep your momentum going forward enabling you to gain distance while doing your floater. When you’re bottom turning up the wave face watch where you are going to place your board on the lip.

Stay low and try to place your board on top of the lip as clean as possible to conserve speed. When you’ve got your board onto the lip change the pressure of your feet from your heel side edge to your toe side edge, and apply pressure to your front foot. This will make sure you continue moving forward, and don’t get left out the back. Ride along on top of the breaking lip until you begin to loose your speed, or you see that the wave is closing out. Watch the line of the breaking lip while staying low and balanced.

You have two options at this point. You can ride off the top of the wave with the lip, or you can ollie out in front of the lip, landing at the bottom of the transition. Your choice will depend on the wave. If the wave is mushy and not breaking very hard you should just ride off with the lip, but if it’s hollow or big you need to ollie off the top. Be sure to spot your landing before you plan to get off the lip. Look for the softest spot to land. When riding off the lip you can usually just turn your board towards shore by putting weight on your toes. Stay low, and start your next bottom turn when you reach the green using the speed from the floater. When ollieing off the lip push down on your toes, and pop off the lip using your back foot to ollie out in front of the barrelling lip. Watch the landing and try to keep your board flat in the air. Your body will want to extend in the air so try to keep your style together. Land at the bottom of the wave with your board flat on the water. Bend your knees to absorb the landing, and ride out the white water bounce.

Floaters are a great move to know because of their versatility. Start out doing floaters on smaller mushy waves using them to gain speed and finish off waves. As you get more comfortable step up to heavier, bigger waves that force you to ollie off the lip. Grip it and rip it.

Speed on a Backside Wave

2009-05-11T00:33:00.000-07:00

Speed on a Backside Wave

Frontside Air Reverse

2009-05-11T00:21:00.001-07:00

Frontside Air Reverse

2009-05-11T00:21:00.000-07:00

Frontside Air Reverse

The Frontside Snap

2009-05-10T01:19:00.000-07:00

Catch a frontside wave of any size or shape. Cruise down the line and look for a fairly steep section with a bit of wall off the pocket. There has to be a bit of wall so you can keep your speed and not dig in your rail. If it’s flat you probably want to do a cutback instead of a snap. You want to bottom turn at a 30 to 50 degree angle up the face. This will help you continue your momentum down the line after the snap is complete. If you try to go too vertical you’ll get caught in the lip and loose all your speed unless your timing is perfect. Keep your eyes focused on the section you’re about to slash while bending your knees and driving through the bottom turn. You want to initiate the snap right when you get to the top half of the wave. To do this, turn your shoulders into the snap. Your front leg should be almost completely straight, (make sure your knee is not locked because that can lead to injury), and driving through the turn like you’re going to do a cutback. This will only be for the start of the turn because as soon as you start cutting back you want to push hard on your back leg. This will cause your back leg to straighten out, your front leg to bend and buckets of spray to fly out the back. Push hard through the snap until your back leg is fully extended. Your weight should be over your front foot, but your back leg needs to be powerful and solid. Stay low and solid over top of your board. Your eyes should be focused on the shape of the wave, and the nose and toe-side rail of your board. You want to be sure to keep your nose up if the wave is steep so you don’t stick it in on your next bottom turn.

If you are flowing into a combo you still need to be conscience of digging your nose, but you need to know what’s going on down the line so you either have to see your section before you start your bottom turn or right after you complete the snap. Once you’ve pushed the snap as far as it’s going to go, and your fins have caught back into the wave (during some snaps your fins can release for a brief second so feel for drive out of your tail again) your board will start moving down the wave again. Keep your momentum going by flying straight into another snap or by pumping down the line towards the on-coming air section.

The frontside snap is a perfect set-up move that can be used on any wave in all types of conditions. Points, reefs, beaches, anywhere, It’s one of the best moves to have in your bag of tricks. Check out any video section of Taj Burrow. He does these all the time.

KEYS:

Start with speed and a section with some wall.
Bottom turn at 30-50 degrees and turn your shoulders into the turn to get it going.
Push your back leg out. Snap it hard and powerful to throw buckets out the back.
Watch the nose and rails coming back down.
Catch the fins and speed down the line into your next move.

Frontside Carving 360

2009-05-08T01:04:00.000-07:00

Frontside Carving 360

Frontside carving 360's are an extention of a fluid powerful bottom turn.

They require excellent timing and preperation to be executed effectively; and feel pure and almost effortless when you nail one.

You want to try these on a nice steep peak with not much wall down the line, or when you come around a section that has a steep pocket to carve into.

Don't try them on a mushy wave because you'll just fall out the back. Drop into the wave from just behind the peak. Drive straight to the bottom of the wave while being aware of where the lip you are going to use is coming down. Get low and start your bottom turn as soon as you reach the flats to conserve as much speed as possible. Lean into it hard and drive up the wave on your rail. Keep your eyes focused on the pocket of the wave. Where the foam meets the wave face is where you should be aiming. Keep your body weight over your inside rail, and keep that rail turning. Unlike a normal bottom turn to off the top, you are not going to be shifting your weight to your other rail at all. So all you have to do is lean into it and connect with the lip at the right time and place. When you get to the top of the wave you want your board to be past vertical and still turning on rail.

This will give you the momentum to keep spinning when you hit the lip in the pocket. At this point you can also give your board a little bit of a spin off your tail. I would reccommend this when you are first trying these if you are getting left out the back while hitting the lip. To do this you want to put a bit more pressure on your back foot and spin your board a bit farther around before hitting the lip. To make these feel and look really good you don't want to spin off your tail at all. It's all rail. Lean in to it, and focus on the lip with most of the weight on your front foot.

Connect with the wave just under the lip where it is steep and powerful.

The nose of your board will come above the lip a little bit but the part of your board under your front foot will be hitting the section. The force of the wave will push your board back towards the bottom of the wave and help your spin to continue as long as you are over vertical when you hit it. You still need to be leaning on the rail hard and your eyes should be focused on the direction you are heading(back into the wave). This part will happen very quickly so you have to be prepared to be thrown around a bit. Stay low and centered over your front foot while continuing the spin. The nose of your board should be coming around now, and you're almost there. Start looking towards the open face and standing up a bit to get ready for your next bottom turn. When your nose is pointed back towards the beach you should already be going down the face getting ready for the next section.

You did it. And if you did it with all rail you are feeling pretty good right now. I love frontside carving 360's when you nail a good one because you spin around so fast it's hard to tell what's happening. Kelly Slater is the master at these. I also enjoy watching Parko and Bruce too.

Keys:

1. Timing and wave selection are crucial.
2. Keep it on rail.
3. Watch the lip, and time it.
4. Hit the lip when you are past vertical.
5. Keep the momentum going by using your rail and front foot.

Frontside Air

2009-05-05T00:55:00.000-07:00

Frontside Air

The frontside Air is considered a basic maneuver in today's new school era of surfing, and although, in my opinion, it is the easiest air to complete, it is still very challenging. Before attempting this maneuver you should have your cutbacks, floaters, and re-entry's down, and your surfing should be stylish and solid.

Once you have these manuevers wired catch a wave that is between two and five feet with some power and wall. You are going to need a lot of speed so pump down the line, staying between the middle and the top of the wave, generating all the speed you can. Look for a section that is about to close out, and bottom turn from the middle of the wave toward the section that is just about to break.

Carry as much speed as you can toward the curling lip by bending your knees and powering through the bottom turn. At this point your eyes should be focused on the part of the lip where you are planning to launch off, and your board should be aimed off the lip into the air above. Now, you just have to carry your momentum off the lip into the air. Make sure your board is flat on the lip when you take off, and don't try to go too high at first because you will end up flailing. To enter into the air you need to drive your momentum off the top of the wave by pushing off the tail of your board.

When entering the air turn the nose of your board towards the beach by straightening out your back leg slightly. Pull your knees up to your chest to stay in control and to stay stylish in the air. Make sure you are over top of your board, and not leaning back too far. You can add different variations to the air at this point by doing double grabs, mute grabs, frontside grabs etc.

Look down in front of you to spot your landing, let go of your grab (if you chose to do one), and extend your legs slightly so your knees can absorb the impact. It is best to land in the foam because it is the softest spot. Try to land with your board flat on the wave. As soon as your board hits the water bend your knees, and stay centered over your front foot. This part can be a little bumpy so stay low and centered. Ride out of the foam and be stoked because you just landed a tricky maneuver.

Frontside airs can be preformed in many different ways, but in my opinion look the best when you use the wave as a ramp to guide you in to the air, not when you ollie off the wave. Get a video of Taj Burrow, and study it, because nobody does frontside airs better than him.

KEYS:

1. Carry speed by driving through your bottom turn, and launching off the lip cleanly.
2. Push out your back leg, and pull your knees to your chest to stay in control.
3. Stay over top of your board.
4. Stomp it, and ride away clean.

The Frontside Snap

2009-05-01T01:19:00.000-07:00

KEYS:

Start with speed and a section with some wall.
Bottom turn at 30-50 degrees and turn your shoulders into the turn to get it going.
Push your back leg out. Snap it hard and powerful to throw buckets out the back.
Watch the nose and rails coming back down.
Catch the fins and speed down the line into your next move.

The Frontside Snap

2009-05-01T01:09:00.000-07:00

The Frontside Snap

The frontside snap is not a cutback. It’s a quick directional change that can be useful to surfers of all skill levels. It’s a great move when you’re first learning to turn because you don’t have to set your rail perfectly; but it’s also a perfect set-up move for an experienced surfer who’s flowing into a big combo or hitting an air section.

Catch a frontside wave of any size or shape. Cruise down the line and look for a fairly steep section with a bit of wall off the pocket. There has to be a bit of wall so you can keep your speed and not dig in your rail. If it’s flat you probably want to do a cutback instead of a snap. You want to bottom turn at a 30 to 50 degree angle up the face. This will help you continue your momentum down the line after the snap is complete. If you try to go too vertical you’ll get caught in the lip and loose all your speed unless your timing is perfect. Keep your eyes focused on the section you’re about to slash while bending your knees and driving through the bottom turn. You want to initiate the snap right when you get to the top half of the wave. To do this, turn your shoulders into the snap. Your front leg should be almost completely straight, (make sure your knee is not locked because that can lead to injury), and driving through the turn like you’re going to do a cutback. This will only be for the start of the turn because as soon as you start cutting back you want to push hard on your back leg. This will cause your back leg to straighten out, your front leg to bend and buckets of spray to fly out the back. Push hard through the snap until your back leg is fully extended. Your weight should be over your front foot, but your back leg needs to be powerful and solid. Stay low and solid over top of your board. Your eyes should be focused on the shape of the wave, and the nose and toe-side rail of your board. You want to be sure to keep your nose up if the wave is steep so you don’t stick it in on your next bottom turn.

If you are flowing into a combo you still need to be conscience of digging your nose, but you need to know what’s going on down the line so you either have to see your section before you start your bottom turn or right after you complete the snap. Once you’ve pushed the snap as far as it’s going to go, and your fins have caught back into the wave (during some snaps your fins can release for a brief second so feel for drive out of your tail again) your board will start moving down the wave again. Keep your momentum going by flying straight into another snap or by pumping down the line towards the on-coming air section.

The frontside snap is a perfect set-up move that can be used on any wave in all types of conditions. Points, reefs, beaches, anywhere, It’s one of the best moves to have in your bag of tricks. Check out any video section of Taj Burrow. He does these all the time.

KEYS:

1. Start with speed and a section with some wall.
2. Bottom turn at 30-50 degrees and turn your shoulders into the turn to get it going.
3. Push your back leg out. Snap it hard and powerful to throw buckets out the back.
4. Watch the nose and rails coming back down.
5. Catch the fins and speed down the line into your next move.

2009-05-01T01:04:00.000-07:00

THE PLAYING FIELD - PART TWO

2009-05-01T00:57:00.000-07:00

THE PLAYING FIELD - PART TWO

CURRENTS
The bigger the surf, the stronger the currents are going to be. You typically will face two types of currents in a normal go-out:

1. Longshore currents. Longshore currents move up or down the beach, parallel to shore. They are generally stronger in the surf zone, so remember this when you're paddling out. Although they're more of a nuisance than a serious threat, longshore currents can be dangerous if you're near a pier, rock or jetty. If you're in a longshore current and are having trouble getting past the surf zone and see yourself approaching a large structure, exit the water immediately and walk back up the beach. The last thing you want to do is get caught between a hard place and the impact zone.

This is one kind of ripping that you don't want to be a part of.

2. Rip currents. Rip currents are the most dangerous current for any beachgoer. They can be an asset or a major threat to your safety, depending on how you understand them. As broken waves wash toward shore, they carry a lot of water with them. The water pools up next to the beach and forms a longshore current on the inside.

As the water moves up or down the beach, it will often funnel back out to sea in the deeper spots. This swift current goes straight out through the surf zone and dissipates once it's beyond the break. Rip currents are easy to spot. Because they're in deeper water, there are usually no waves breaking in rips. Also, you'll notice foam and rapid water moving out to sea; strong rip currents look like rivers in the middle of the surf zone. Near a reef, the rip might be in water that's a deeper blue. If you find yourself in a rip, don't try to swim against it -- it's almost impossible to swim faster than the speed of a strong rip, and the effort will only tire you out. The best way to get out of a rip is to swim up or down the beach, parallel to shore. If this still doesn't free you up, and you feel like you won't be able to get back to shore on your own, remember that the universal distress signal is the waving of one arm.

TIDES
Tides are created by the gravitational attraction of the moon and the sun on the earth and its oceans. They have a direct effect on how waves break. During low tide, you may be subject to exposed rocks or reefs that weren't there six hours before. Waves tend to be steeper and break farther from shore during low tide, but this isn't always the case. We're speaking in general terms here, but high tide usually means mushier, slower-breaking waves. High tide can also cause backwash, which is caused when waves bounce off rocks or sandbars on shore and ricochet back to sea. During high tides, you will notice that shorebreaks become more intense. Most breaks have a preferable tide. To find out when to go to your local break, grab a free tide book from your local surf shop.

SIGNS AND RESOURCES
Tides are created by the gravitational attraction of the moon ur when a swell approaches a more gradual bottom contour. Because mushy waves are softer and more forgiving, they allow for the fastest learning curve possible.

If you're surfing in an area with a lifeguard, there are two signs that you should be aware of:

Time to break out the sponge.

1. Blackball. Like death and taxes, it's a sad but necessary part of life. A blackball flag, characterized by the black circle surrounded by a yellow background, means that hard surfboards are not allowed in the break. These tend to be prevalent at most populated beaches during summer.

2. Red Flag. Red flags mean that the beach is closed due to hazardous conditions. If you see a red flag at your local break, consult the lifeguard before paddling out. Red flags may also mark a rip current.

EQUIPMENT
Although it's tempting to go to your local surf shop and buy the latest pro model, the reality is that the modern shortboard is virtually impossible to learn on. It's squirrely, not very buoyant and hard to paddle. In order to make your learning experience worthwhile, choose a wide, steady board that's at least a couple of feet longer than you. A longboard will do, but the ideal beginner's model is a soft board, known as a Morey Doyle or BZ Board. The softboards are made of the same material as Boogie Boards, and they help prevent your board from becoming a hazard to yourself and others.

The one on the right should be your board of choice.

Surf wax is used to prevent from slipping while you're up and riding. When you wax the deck or top of your board, move the bar in semi-circles so that small beads form. Try to keep the deck of the board cooler than the wax and it will apply much better. To maintain the rough texture, take a few passes with a wax comb before each go-out. Another option is surf traction. Traction minimizes the amount of wax you have to buy, plus it can help slow the inevitable process of delamination, or the separation of the board's fiberglass and foam.

Just about every surfer uses a leash these days. Your leash should be a foot longer than your surfboard. Although they're helpful, leashes should never be treated as your only lifeline. Also, your leash can become a serious liability if it gets wrapped around a rock or reef when you're in the surf zone. A good option is the quick-release model. The easy-access tab will free you from danger in one quick pull.

Other amenities: it's a good idea to invest in a noseguard for your board. The few extra bucks just may save an eye. Another good safety option is the urethane-lined fins. Everyone lands on his or her fins sooner or later, and the urethane may turn what would have been a trip to the hospital into a bruise or less.

Frontside Air

2009-05-01T00:55:00.000-07:00

THE PLAYING FIELD

2009-04-30T00:43:00.000-07:00

THE PLAYING FIELD - PART ONE
Before paddling out, always assess the conditions and know your limits. Unlike other sports, your playing field is constantly changing. Two-foot mushburgers one day can be 10-foot meat grinders the next. Obviously, the most important element of this changing playing field is the waves. Waves are created by wind and storms out at sea. How these waves hit your local break are determined by a number of factors: bottom contour, tides and wind. Waves break over the following bottom contours:

The all-natural raceway: Jeffreys Bay.

1. Pointbreaks. Points usually occur where there's a dip in the headland, creating a bend in the coast. This tends to be the ideal case for surfers, since points have the potential to create perfect waves, which are characterized by long, tapering curls. One of the world's best pointbreaks is a spot called Jeffreys Bay in South Africa, where surfers ride waves at high speeds for as long as a half-mile.

This is where you don't want to be. Teahupoo, the world's deadliest reefbreak.

2. Reefbreaks. A reefbreak is a wave that breaks over a rock or coral shelf. Due to its bottom, reefbreaks are consistent in their shape and location. Like all waves, reefbreaks vary in shape and size, but the world's best reefbreaks, such as the Banzai Pipeline on Oahu and Teahupoo in Tahiti, are some of the most amazing but dangerous spectacles on Earth. As a general rule, beginners should avoid reefbreaks.

This is where you want to be: in the slow rollers of your local beachbreak.

3. Beachbreaks. Beachbreak waves break over a sand bottom and are commonly more erratic and shifty than reef or pointbreaks. With fewer hazards such as coral or rocks, though, beachbreaks are a good bet for beginners.

The bottom's incline, or slope, also plays a major role in the way waves break, from soft, easy rollers to surging, unsurfable monsters. On the opposite ends of the spectrum, you have the following:

1. Plunging waves. A plunging wave occurs when the swell comes out of deep water and hits a shallow sandbar or reef. Ultimately, these are the waves that surfers look for. But since they break top to bottom and tend to be faster and more challenging, beginners should stay away from them.

2. Mushy waves. Mushy or slow-rolling waves are more desirable for beginners. Mushy waves occur when a swell approaches a more gradual bottom contour. Because mushy waves are softer and more forgiving, they allow for the fastest learning curve possible.

Unfortunately, closeouts are the rule more than the exception in most coastal areas.

Watch at your own risk. Waimea shorebreak.

3. Other. Like Eskimos with snow, surfers have dozens of words to describe waves. For starters, there are a few you should know about. First, closeouts are waves that break all at once and, since they offer no tapering curl or open wave face, are not sought after by surfers. Second, reforms are waves that initially break over a shoal, back off into unbroken swell as they pass through deep water and then break again closer to shore. Reforms occur when a deeper trench connects two shallower sandbars or reefs. Huntington Beach Pier is a good place to see a textbook reform. Finally, double-ups are when two swells converge to form a thicker, steeper breaking wave closer to shore. Waimea Bay's shorebreak is probably the nastiest double-up on the planet.

THE PLAYING FIELD - PART ONE

2009-04-30T00:33:00.001-07:00

1. Pointbreaks. Points usually occur where there's a dip in the headland, creating a bend in the coast. This tends to be the ideal case for surfers, since points have the potential to create perfect waves, which are characterized by long, tapering curls. One of the world's best pointbreaks is a spot called Jeffreys Bay in South Africa, where surfers ride waves at high speeds for as long as a half-mile.

Foot Plant

2009-04-18T19:41:00.000-07:00

This is a really easy trick to do. Just ollie up but don't drag too much, land your back foot on the ground, your front foot should be in the air, catch the board with your front hand. Jump of your back foot and acid drop back onto the board.

Good Luck!

Fast Plant

2009-04-16T00:00:00.000-07:00

You pop your board straight up into your front hand with your back foot (do not level out like with an ollie) and grab the nose. Your front foot should stay in contact with the board at all times. As you pop your tail (your back foot should not touch the ground) you use your back foot to jump onto an object i.e. a curb or small ledge. Land on it with just your back foot while still holding your board (your front foot should still be touching the board!) and then you kind of just jump of the object and back onto your board. It's tough to get the hang of popping the board and jumping with your back foot at the same time but just keep practicing.

Good Luck!