Mini Tanker | |
 | This board is for all intents and purposes a smaller version of the typical longboard. Mini tankers feature the same design elements as longboards. Depending on the rider’s preference, mini tankers can ridden with wide noses and concave for noseriding, or a pulled in, slightly pointed nose for a more performance-oriented style of surfing. Due to the shorter rail line it will obviously turn quicker than the typical longboard, yet still paddle and catch waves effortlessly. These boards will work in any size surf but are most commonly ridden in small to medium size waves. The mini tanker's smaller size are best suited to the weight and body size of women and children but are often ridden by average sized men as well. This is another great all around board design that works well for surfers of any skill level. |
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Funboards
Funboards are aptly named because they allow the rider to focus on the purest goal of surfing which is having fun! The outline is basically an overgrown egg which is why some shapers call their funboard designs eggs. This type of board incorporates all the elements of modern surfboard design including moderate rocker and standard rail shape. Funboards often times utilize thruster fin set ups and their ample volume and length allow the rider to paddle, catch waves, and turn effortlessly. Most shapers will agree that for average surfers, funboards provide the best of both worlds: the paddling power of a longboard and the turning ability of a shortboard all blended into one.
The design works well in small to medium size surf, however, funboards loose their charm in large surf. This design is a great all around board that works well for all surfers but is best suited to the beginner or the rider making a step down in length from a longboard towards a shortboard.
Retro Single Fins
The retro movement is a product of the previously mentioned open-minded trend towards experimentation. If you want to truly understand the history of surfboard design, it makes perfect sense to try a single fin. Surfing one will help you see why the advent of the twin fin and thruster were such significant turning points in the evolution of surfboard design. The single fin’s template features a wide point forward of center and the thickest point of a single fin is also past center. Having more volume under your chest makes this type of board easy to paddle offering high wave catching ability. By moving the widest point forward (which also creates a straighter and narrower tail), the single fin outline encourages the board to track down the line. The typical single fin bottom features vee starting from the center of the board and flowing to the tail which helps to counter the straightness of the outline and allow the board to roll from rail to rail much more freely.
Single fins can work in any size surf but surfer beware, you'll need to nurse your turns in order to keep the fin from releasing and causing the dreaded spin out. As mentioned previously, riding this design will offer you a greater appreciation of the effortless turning modern surfboard designs provide. Because of the added volume and ease of paddling inherent to this design, retro surfboards can work for a variety of abilities anywhere from from a total beginner to the more advanced surfer.
Shortboards
Due to the highly competitive nature of the shortboard market, high performance shortboard designs have become very generic in recent years. Most shapers play follow the leader, making only subtle changes in bottom contours and outline to differentiate their designs from one another. Most surfers lacking a trained eye in board design will not notice or feel much difference from one shaper's design to another. Basic shortboard surfboards feature a single to double concave and three fins (thruster set-up). These boards are thinned down as much as possible creating a board that lacks floatation and offering poor paddling ability. To the novice surfer, shortboards can be very difficult to catch waves on and unless you’re a surfer of considerable skill, shortboards prove to be very difficult to ride in weak/small surf. These boards are designed for performance minded surfers and are designed for quality surf.
Shortboards need to be turned continuously to generate speed and if you posses this kind of ability, you’ll likely be able to do any type of manuever you can imagine including airs, tail slides, floaters, reverses, etc. The shortboard design is definitely meant for the intermediate to advanced level surfer and will create serious problems for a beginner.
Eggs
Eggs are similar to fishes in that they have flatter rocker and plane quickly, allowing them to catch waves easily. Traditional style eggs have a single fin and today's modern design utilizes a 2+1 fin setup (large center fin with two smaller side fins). Adding the side bites to the longer center fin helps the rider perform harder rail turns without the fear of spinning out, which is an inherent drawback of the single fin design. Eggs also have more curve in their outline than fishes which equals better turning.Like fishes, eggs are usually shorter than 6’0” which makes them best suited for small surf, however, the above average surfer can adapt and make this design work in medium size surf as well. Because of the added curve in their outline, eggs have a smoother rail-to-rail transition than a fish and love carving big round house cutbacks. The egg's flat rocker and quick planning ability create the same speed as fishes and are best suited for intermediate to advanced surfers.
Surfboard Types
Fish
Fishes are short and wide with flat rocker in the entry and tail. The Modern Fish, also known as the Rocket Fish have three fins. Conversely, the traditional fish (circa 1970's) was designed with twin keel fins.Fish surfboards catch waves surprisingly well despite their lack of surface area (most fishes are substantially shorter than a surfer's normal shortboard), mainly because of its flatter rocker, allowing the board to plane at a lower speed. The shortness of this design creates a tight turning radius, making the board better suited to small waves but the above average surfer can also make them work in medium size surf as well.
Because of the added width, fish tend to ride flat on the wave and don’t transition from rail to rail very well making them difficult to surf vertically. However, the flat rocker and quick planning make this a very fast design that loves to race down the line and fly past slow sections on the wave. The fish is best for intermediate to advanced surfers.
The most common board used for shredding and contest-style surfing. It sacrifices paddling ease for the sake of speed, power and control. They are generally around 5'6" to 6'4" long and between 16" and 19" wide, generally with a rounded square tail. A surfboard designed for the advanced surfer.
Fish
The fish surfboard differs from a shortboard in that it has a wider, rounder nose, a wider mid-section width and a 'swallow tail'. They are generally between 5'2" and 6'4" long and between 18" and 22" wide. They are designed to improve wave catching capability while maintaining speed and manoeuvring performance, ideal for small to medium sized waves.
Gun
The gun is long, narrow and pointy at the nose and tail (pin tail) for maximum rail contact. They range from 6' to 10' plus. They are ideal for big wave surfing, or for powerful, steep waves. Because of their shape they are easier to paddle out further to the big waves and easier to control on the steeper waves. The name derives from the term 'elephant gun', and means the board is the surfers' gun for hunting down big/giant surf.
Longboard
Otherwise known as a 'cruizer' or 'log'. They are usually over 8' or 9' long, with a rounded nose. Longboards are much more stable in the water, they are easier to paddle and great for catching waves, making them ideal for learning on. However due to their size, they can be harder to get through the white water and oncoming sets to get 'out the back'. There is a great deal of style attached to riding a longboard. Where the radical sharp turns and airs possible with a shortboard are not possible on a longboard, other manoeuvres are like hang fives or tens, drop-knee turns, cross-stepping along the deck of the board... and even tandem surfing!
Malibu or Mini-Mal
The malibu board is similar to the longboard in its shape and riding characteristics, but it's slightly shorter length and slimmer width and tail allow for sharper turns. You may also hear the malibu board referred to as a 'mini-mal', which is simply as it sounds, a slightly shorter malibu. They either have one large fin or three smaller fins.
Funboard
Funboards range in length between 6'6" and 8'0" and 20" to 22" wide. The funboard combines the paddling power of a longboard with the turning ability of a shortboard. These boards perform well in all conditions and are ideal for less experienced surfers.
Foamboard
Otherwise known as 'foamies' or 'softboards'. They are designed for beginners... as because they are foam, they are easier to catch waves on, easier to stand up on and much more stable in the water. Also as they are foam they are less likel to hurt you or others around you, and so are an obvious choice for surf schools.
Bodyboard
Otherwise known as a 'boogie board'. They are small, more rectangular boards you lay on rather than standing. Used by a variety of age groups, one of the safest options for families in small waves. Made from polystyrene, foam, wood or fibreglass. They can be very cheap, and are a lot of fun.
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Fins/skegs
The fin is the curved bit hanging down from the bottom of the surfboard near the tail (back of board). They give the surfboard directional stability on the face of the wave enabling turns and tricks. The early Hawaiian Olo boards didn't have a fin, it wasn't until the 30's when Tom Blake put a fin on a longboard that the idea caught on. Since then, twin-fins were introduced, then tri, then quad and now fins are interchangeable allowing surfers to experiment to suit their own style.
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The 'rocker'
The rocker refers to the bottom curve of the surfboard. From a horizontal view, it is more evident as the up-curve of the nose and tail of the board. Modern surfboards are shaped differently to enhance speed or maneuverability. There are many different types of rocker. But as a general rule the more bottom curve the surfboard has, the looser the board is in the water allowing more maneuverability, but slower. And the flatter the bottom curve, the faster the board is, but with less maneuverability.
And so a board with more bottom curve is better in larger waves, as the surfer has more maneuverability and the board is slower and easier to control in the more dangerous surf, where a flatter bottom would be better in smaller, slower surf where more speed is needed. Most surfers would prefer a neutral rocker as a happy medium.
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Surfboard wax
This looks like a bar of soap! It is in fact what surfers use to provide grip on the surface of their board. You rub the wax over the top of the surfboard to create enough friction to melt the wax into tiny bumps, which hold your toes to the nose.
There are different types of surf wax, it is important to use the correct wax for the conditions of surf, or the temperature of the water, or the wax will be ineffective! The different kinds are...
The Surfboard
The Surfboard is the essential piece of surfing equipment. Without it you ain't surfin'. The modern surfboard has come a long way in design and construction since the Hawaiians started surfing on wooden planks. The modern surfboard is hand shaped by professional shapers out of foam and finished with a fibreglass coat. They are light and strong, and the cutting edge of surfboard design changes as quickly as a cold surfer does on a windy day. Let's have a look at what the different bits of the surfboard are called so that you can sound knowledgeable when talking your mum into buying you a nice new board.
The first thing to note is that the Nose of the board is the bit that faces forwards. The Surfboard sits in the water deck site up, as you have probably already figured out by looking at the Surfing Lessons
DeckThe Deck is the top side of the surfboard and is where the surfer stands to surf and lays to paddle. Wax is applied to this top surface for grip. Often surfers will use deck grip for extra traction. If you look at the deck of a surfboard you will usually see a slight camber from the rail to the middle then back to the rail. This is know as a Domed Deck and helps promote easy rail to rail movements. The other tpe of deck is the Flat Deck - no prizes for guessing what this type looks like.
Nose
The nose of the surboard sits out of the water. On shortboards, fish and guns the Nose is normally pointed and on funboards / minimals and longboards the Nose is usually rounded. This is by no means set in stone. Some surfers use a surfboard nose guard which can protect the surfboard from dings and also protect the surfer from a good poke from a disgruntled board!
Tail
The tail is at the back of the board. There are quite a few different tail shapes with each shape providing different board performance. Check out surfboard tail shapes for more details. As pointed out in the above diagram, the tail will have a Leash Plug. This plug is where the leash is attached to the surfboards. The plug is set into the deck and the leash is looped through. Take a look at out handy attaching a surfboard leash guide.
Rails
The rails are the 'edge' of the surfboard and run from the tail to the nose and are where the deck and the bottom meet. Like the tail shapes, different rail rail shapes provide different surfboard performance. It may not be something you have thought about but take a look at the different shapes next time you are in a surf shop. More about Surfboard Rail Shapes here.
Stringer
The Stringer is a strip of strengthening material (typically wood) that runs the whole length of a foam surfboard. It is already present in the surfboard blank before it is shaped. Epoxy, Soft and Carbon Fibre (space age eh!) surfboards will not often have stringers.
What makes a wave dangerous? Is sheer size an accurate indicator for how hazardous a surf spot is? Read on for our roundup of the top ten most dangerous waves in the world.
1. Cyclops (remote south coast Western Australia)
This ultra square-shaped, below sea level, one-eyed monster tops the list for good reasons. It’s impossible to paddle into on a surfboard and almost unrideable towing behind a jet ski.
If you blow a wave here you’ll be washed straight onto the dry rocks, which is a bummer because the nearest medical help is hours away.
Photo by REUTERS/Mike Hutchings
2. Teahupoo (Tahiti)
The scary thing about Teahupoo (pronounced Cho-poo) is that as the swell gets beyond 10 feet the wave doesn’t so much get taller, it just gets more enormous, often looking like the entire ocean is peeling over with the lip.
Falling off here is almost a guarantee of hitting the razor sharp coral reef below, which wouldn’t be so bad if the locals didn’t insist on using fresh Tahitian lime juice to sterilise the reef cuts. Ouch.
3. Shipsterns (Tasmania, Australia)
Set along a remote length of pristine Tasmanian coastline, you could almost call this area picturesque if the wave itself wasn’t so ugly.
Raw Antarctic swells come out of deep ocean and jack up into a roaring righthander in front of the cliff which gives the spot its name. The uneven reef causes weird steps and bubbles in the wave, which are always a pleasant surprise when you’re still trying to navigate the drop down the face.
Photo by jurvetson
4. Dungeons (Cape Town, South Africa)
It’s not that shallow and it doesn’t break in front of any rocks, but it is located off the tip of South Africa in the freezing Southern Ocean in shark infested waters. Dungeons regularly holds waves up to 70 feet, which is why organisers have chosen to hold the annual Big Wave Africa contest here since 1999.
5. Pipeline (Oahu, Hawaii)
The shallow lava reef that shapes Pipe’s famous round tube is actually full of trenches and bumps -meaning a nasty old time for anyone falling out of the lip from 12 feet above. Which happens with surprisingly regularity, even to the experienced locals.
Perhaps almost as dangerous are the insane crowds that flock to Pipe any time it gets good, with fearless Hawaiians competing with pros, wannabes and tourists for the set waves.
Photo by felipeskroski
6. Desert Point (Lombok, Indonesia)
This beautiful lefthander peels over very shallow coral somewhere off the dusty island of Lombok. The wave is less dangerous than the hazards of extreme boredom during flat spells (there’s nothing on land but a few run down losemans), overcrowding, contracting malaria and the fact that medical access is hours away.
7. The Cave (Ericeira, Portugal)
With all the ingredients that a dangerous wave should have, including a shallow reef, urchins and hot-tempered Latino locals, its not surprising The Cave has been described as Europe’s heaviest wave. It was once the preserve of Portugal’s bodyboarding set, but pros like Tiago Pires have been taking it on in recent years – and surviving.
Photo by bevankoopman
8. Lunada Bay (California, USA)
Perhaps one of the best right handers in California, Lunada is a great performance wave at six feet but it also handles swell right up to 20 feet. It’s not an overly dangerous wave in itself, but the locals are another matter.
Visiting surfers have reported slashed tyres, rocks thrown, fist fights and a seemingly disinterested local police force. You’re on your own here.
9. Gringos (Arica, Chile)
Chile has a bunch of waves as equally as heavy and urchin-infested as this one but El Gringo is included in this list because of the damage it did to the pro surfers who surfed it in 2007’s WCT event. There were numerous broken boards, embedded urchin spines and slashed heads. And they surf for a living. Imagine what it’d do to you?
10. Tarqua (Lagos, Nigeria)
The good news is that this beach break located at the entrance to the Lagoon of Iddo in Lagos is often a fun, wedging peak. The bad news is the 60 million litres of raw sewage and tonnes of industrial waste produced by the 8 million inhabitants of Lagos every year that flows out into the ocean. Other hazards include floating carcasses, rubbish and the occasional mugging on the beach.
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