THE PLAYING FIELD - PART ONE Before paddling out, always assess the conditions and know your limits. Unlike other sports, your playing field is constantly changing. Two-foot mushburgers one day can be 10-foot meat grinders the next. Obviously, the most important element of this changing playing field is the waves. Waves are created by wind and storms out at sea. How these waves hit your local break are determined by a number of factors: bottom contour, tides and wind. Waves break over the following bottom contours: | ||||||
| 1. Pointbreaks. Points usually occur where there's a dip in the headland, creating a bend in the coast. This tends to be the ideal case for surfers, since points have the potential to create perfect waves, which are characterized by long, tapering curls. One of the world's best pointbreaks is a spot called Jeffreys Bay in South Africa, where surfers ride waves at high speeds for as long as a half-mile. | |||||
| 2. Reefbreaks. A reefbreak is a wave that breaks over a rock or coral shelf. Due to its bottom, reefbreaks are consistent in their shape and location. Like all waves, reefbreaks vary in shape and size, but the world's best reefbreaks, such as the Banzai Pipeline on Oahu and Teahupoo in Tahiti, are some of the most amazing but dangerous spectacles on Earth. As a general rule, beginners should avoid reefbreaks. | |||||
| 3. Beachbreaks. Beachbreak waves break over a sand bottom and are commonly more erratic and shifty than reef or pointbreaks. With fewer hazards such as coral or rocks, though, beachbreaks are a good bet for beginners. | |||||
The bottom's incline, or slope, also plays a major role in the way waves break, from soft, easy rollers to surging, unsurfable monsters. On the opposite ends of the spectrum, you have the following: 1. Plunging waves. A plunging wave occurs when the swell comes out of deep water and hits a shallow sandbar or reef. Ultimately, these are the waves that surfers look for. But since they break top to bottom and tend to be faster and more challenging, beginners should stay away from them. 2. Mushy waves. Mushy or slow-rolling waves are more desirable for beginners. Mushy waves occur when a swell approaches a more gradual bottom contour. Because mushy waves are softer and more forgiving, they allow for the fastest learning curve possible. | ||||||
| 3. Other. Like Eskimos with snow, surfers have dozens of words to describe waves. For starters, there are a few you should know about. First, closeouts are waves that break all at once and, since they offer no tapering curl or open wave face, are not sought after by surfers. Second, reforms are waves that initially break over a shoal, back off into unbroken swell as they pass through deep water and then break again closer to shore. Reforms occur when a deeper trench connects two shallower sandbars or reefs. Huntington Beach Pier is a good place to see a textbook reform. Finally, double-ups are when two swells converge to form a thicker, steeper breaking wave closer to shore. Waimea Bay's shorebreak is probably the nastiest double-up on the planet.
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THE PLAYING FIELD - PART ONE
Before paddling out, always assess the conditions and know your limits. Unlike other sports, your playing field is constantly changing. Two-foot mushburgers one day can be 10-foot meat grinders the next. Obviously, the most important element of this changing playing field is the waves. Waves are created by wind and storms out at sea. How these waves hit your local break are determined by a number of factors: bottom contour, tides and wind. Waves break over the following bottom contours:
You pop your board straight up into your front hand with your back foot (do not level out like with an ollie) and grab the nose. Your front foot should stay in contact with the board at all times. As you pop your tail (your back foot should not touch the ground) you use your back foot to jump onto an object i.e. a curb or small ledge. Land on it with just your back foot while still holding your board (your front foot should still be touching the board!) and then you kind of just jump of the object and back onto your board. It's tough to get the hang of popping the board and jumping with your back foot at the same time but just keep practicing.
Good Luck!I think Tom Green does this on his show.
Pickup your board so your holding the edge closest to your body and it's parallel to your shoulders. Flip the board around so it does a hard flip thing:You should catch it on the outside edge so it should do a 180 kickflip (varial flip thing) then twist your hand so it on the far end (it should spin a 180 making a 360 flip) and jump up and put it under your feet and land looking like Tom Green.
Good Luck!For a 180 No Comply your gonna want to set up with your back foot on the tail ready for a good pop and your front foot where ever you feel comfortable, I myself usually just set it straight across the board covering the front bolts. The key to this trick this the initially taking your front foot off the board without disrupting popping it with your back foot, just put pressure on your foot and slip it off and then pop the tail with you back foot as you would a 180 or something. Start turning your shoulders as you would a F/S 180 while guiding the board in the desired direction with your back foot. Now all you have to do to complete the trick is put your original front foot back on the board, and there you have it. Now get them down like Justin Strubing and you'll be set...
Good Luck!You have to know how to boneless before you try this.
Setup like a normal boneless and do everything the same but when your front foot is on the ground and your about to hop off your front foot to land on the board. With your hand spin a finger flip. When you see the board is done spinning catch it like a Kickflip and land.
Good Luck!Ok make sure you can at least boneless decently, start going regular (the faster you go the cooler it looks cause you roll away) then move your back foot onto the back truck so when you step off the front end doesn?t come up, then grab the board with your right hand, step off with your front foot and quickly jump like a regular boneless but as you jump turn 180 so before your even in the air you are 1/2 way spun around then suck your front foot back up onto the board (this is the KEY to the trick) look at the board and watch your foot back on the board as your spinning the rest of the 360 land and if you are rolling fast enough you will roll away and get all the hot chicks!!!
Good Luck!1-Reg boneless
What it is-the boneless is a trick where u grab the board like an Indy and take your front foot off the back side and jump off with that foot and go into the air and then land with booth feet over the bolts.
how to do it- Start out going really slow with both feet over the trucks. Maybe have the back on a little farther up. Crouch down and grab the board like and Indy. But grab it under the wheels and more or less farther up the board than u usually would for an Indy. then take your front foot off and very quickly it should hit the ground and u should jump off that. when u are at your peak in the are put your front foot back on. Now this is why u should have grabbed it farther up. When u are coming down most of your weight will have been on your back foot and if u grabbed farther back it would have not made the board level in the air and u would have landed in a tail stop. Now ride away cool cause u just busted a sic old school move!!!
tips- Try grabbing it like and Indy and with your front hand a nose grab and u will be very level in the air! Also try doing front side 180 boneless' also cause there just as easy and for some easier. Make sure not to stop when u put your foot down either!
Good Luck!You have to know how to boneless 180 and boneless finger flip before you try this.
Do everything the same as a boneless 180. Then put your front foot on the ground grab and Indy. When you hop of you front foot do a regular boneless 180 but with your hand that's grabbing an Indy. Flip the board. This looks coolest when you spin the finger flip when you have already done a 90 in the air.
Good Luck!