THE PLAYING FIELD - PART ONE Before paddling out, always assess the conditions and know your limits. Unlike other sports, your playing field is constantly changing. Two-foot mushburgers one day can be 10-foot meat grinders the next. Obviously, the most important element of this changing playing field is the waves. Waves are created by wind and storms out at sea. How these waves hit your local break are determined by a number of factors: bottom contour, tides and wind. Waves break over the following bottom contours: | ||||||
| 1. Pointbreaks. Points usually occur where there's a dip in the headland, creating a bend in the coast. This tends to be the ideal case for surfers, since points have the potential to create perfect waves, which are characterized by long, tapering curls. One of the world's best pointbreaks is a spot called Jeffreys Bay in South Africa, where surfers ride waves at high speeds for as long as a half-mile. | |||||
| 2. Reefbreaks. A reefbreak is a wave that breaks over a rock or coral shelf. Due to its bottom, reefbreaks are consistent in their shape and location. Like all waves, reefbreaks vary in shape and size, but the world's best reefbreaks, such as the Banzai Pipeline on Oahu and Teahupoo in Tahiti, are some of the most amazing but dangerous spectacles on Earth. As a general rule, beginners should avoid reefbreaks. | |||||
| 3. Beachbreaks. Beachbreak waves break over a sand bottom and are commonly more erratic and shifty than reef or pointbreaks. With fewer hazards such as coral or rocks, though, beachbreaks are a good bet for beginners. | |||||
The bottom's incline, or slope, also plays a major role in the way waves break, from soft, easy rollers to surging, unsurfable monsters. On the opposite ends of the spectrum, you have the following: 1. Plunging waves. A plunging wave occurs when the swell comes out of deep water and hits a shallow sandbar or reef. Ultimately, these are the waves that surfers look for. But since they break top to bottom and tend to be faster and more challenging, beginners should stay away from them. 2. Mushy waves. Mushy or slow-rolling waves are more desirable for beginners. Mushy waves occur when a swell approaches a more gradual bottom contour. Because mushy waves are softer and more forgiving, they allow for the fastest learning curve possible. | ||||||
| 3. Other. Like Eskimos with snow, surfers have dozens of words to describe waves. For starters, there are a few you should know about. First, closeouts are waves that break all at once and, since they offer no tapering curl or open wave face, are not sought after by surfers. Second, reforms are waves that initially break over a shoal, back off into unbroken swell as they pass through deep water and then break again closer to shore. Reforms occur when a deeper trench connects two shallower sandbars or reefs. Huntington Beach Pier is a good place to see a textbook reform. Finally, double-ups are when two swells converge to form a thicker, steeper breaking wave closer to shore. Waimea Bay's shorebreak is probably the nastiest double-up on the planet.
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